4TH & SWIFT

He says:
This past weekend, I treated Uptown Girl to a special Valentine’s Day dinner at 4th & Swift, one of Atlanta’s hottest new restaurants in 2008. And what says “romance” more than a 4-course prix fixe menu for $75/person? With Bacchanalia-level prices, though, there also come the expectation of a creative menu, top-shelf ingredients, and unexpected pairings that challenge the palette.

Could 4th & Swift deliver?

She says:
For the first course, Downtown Boy and I both chose the poached Maine lobster. If they were going to charge us an arm and a leg for dinner, we were going to get the most out of it! They were generous with the lobster meat, which was buttery and delicious. It came atop a pile of cauliflower “risotto,” which was, unfortunately, just a bland pile of steamed cauliflower. Also absent was the carrot-ginger emulsion… there was a butter sauce on the bottom of the plate, but it lacked any distinct ginger or carrot flavor.

My second course involved Yellowfin tuna prepared two ways. The first, a slab of tuna lightly seared and set on top of seaweed salad, was uninventive. The second was tastier and more creative – a spicy tuna tartare mixed with avocado and topped with wasabi tobiko (roe).

He says:
My second appetizer of pork sugo and herb gnocchi was disappointing. Ground up into a Bolognese-style ragu, the pork was as bland as the tomato base it came with. It didn’t help that underneath the parmesan flakes it looked like Hamburger Helper. The accompanying gnocchi was delicate and tasty, but it wasn’t enough to save this dish.

My “counting sheep” entrée – a North African inspired dish that included 3 types of mutton – fared much better. The merguez (spicy sausage) was rich and smoky. Two generous chops came with a creamy tahini sauce. And the slow braised shoulder, while tame, paired well with the moist bed of couscous and a spicy harissa.

She says:
On our server’s recommendation, I selected the roasted North Carolina pheasant for my entree. It reminded me of Thanksgiving dinner. First, the late fall/winter flavors were all there… the tender roasted pheasant meat, the buttery mashed sweet potatoes, the cabbage hash, and a sort of cranberry and nut chutney. And second, it was far too much food. I definitely enjoyed the dish, but I also wondered if 4th and Swift was trying to justify the price of this prix fixe meal through quantity rather than quality.

Consequently I could only manage a few bites of my dessert, a spiced chocolate pot de crème. The custard was fine, but missing any real intensity. I was put off by the cinnamon “churros” that came alongside, as they were not cooked through, leaving the interior unappetizingly gooey.

He says:
The parsnip and apple cake, 4th and Swift’s avant garde version of carrot cake, was a complete letdown. Any notes of either parsnip or apple were lost in two successive layers of maple cream cheese frosting.

Another letdown, I might add, was the restaurant’s décor. The entire “faux warehouse” look of backlit brick face walls and exposed piping is just so played out. It’s the de facto look of restaurants that are too lazy to create an authentic vibe. And I guess that’s my major problem with 4th & Swift, overall. The kitchen here is talented, but too many dishes are lazily prepared, or formulaic, or just plain boring.

We say:
Good food in search of true inspiration.




4th & Swift
621 North Avenue NE, Atlanta, GA 30308
http://www.4thandswift.com/

SOTTO SOTTO

He says:
Ah, Sotto Sotto, where have you been all these years?

Uptown Girl and I consider Italian one of our favorite cuisines, and yet we have struggled to find a great Italian meal ever since moving to Atlanta. We have followed recommendations from friends and publications alike, and everywhere we have dined we’ve encountered generic pasta in boring cream sauces. After a long while, I resigned myself to second-rate Italian in this city… but finding an establishment like Sotto Sotto gives me real hope.

It occupies a small, unassuming space on North Highland that is easy to miss, which is probably why it took us so long to eat here. Nevertheless it is lovely inside, with dark wood tables, dim accent lighting, and the unfinished plaster walls of a Tuscan villa. The restaurant was almost empty when we arrived for an early dinner, but by the time we left every table was full. In this economy, this tells me that Sotto Sotto is doing something right.

Our waiter said Sotto Sotto’s risotto was considered the best in the city, and I won’t argue with him. The mushroom risotto I ordered was sublime. The Arborio rice was creamy and tender without falling into mushiness, with a robust mix of wild mushrooms infusing every bite.

The pappardelle with duck ragu was less of a revelation but no less delicious. The delicacy of the fresh pasta paired well with the light tomato base and rich slivers of duck thigh. The kitchen could have been more generous with the duck, but this is a minor complaint. Each of these pasta half-orders only cost $10, and they were more than filling.

She says:
These half-order pastas are the most brilliant idea ever. After hemming and hawing between two pasta dishes for 10 minutes, I finally realized I could get both! The cappellacci de zucca is a seasonal dish, little pasta “hats” stuffed with butternut squash and sweet potato, and served with sage in a brown butter sauce. I’ve had better versions of this dish before, and although the pasta was perfect, overall the dish was too mild. Luckily I had a second dish to savor – the tagliattelle al funghi. It was the noodle version of Downtown Boy’s wild mushroom risotto. Again, the fresh pasta was excellent, and the sauce achieved a terrific blend of creaminess, saltiness, and mushroomy earthiness. I would definitely put it among my top 10 favorite entrees in Atlanta.

I really didn’t need dessert, but I had to try the chocolate soup, just because it sounded so… different. It was basically a bowl of warm melted chocolate with bits of crunchy, salty “croutons” that added a nice textural contrast. A delicious novelty, but a bit much.

We say:
There’s nothing overly fancy at Sotto Sotto … just basic Italian dishes that are close to perfect.




Sotto Sotto
313 North Highland Ave. Atlanta, GA 30307
http://www.frittirestaurant.com/sotto/

SUN IN MY BELLY

He says:
I feel like I’ve been searching for a neighborhood café like Sun in my Belly ever since coming to Atlanta. With tall windows that face the College Avenue train tracks and abundant sunshine lighting up three handsome rooms (one area for on-the-go orders and two dining rooms), this former hardware store has cleaned up beautifully. It’s clean, well-mannered, and instantly homey. Joggers in running shoes dine next to funky young couples and families dressed in Brooks Brothers. Unlike the noisy, free-wheeling atmosphere found in other Atlanta brunch spots, Sun in my Belly exudes a certain reserve, a quiet confidence you might say, borne from its belief that high-quality, no frills organic food can prosper in Atlanta.

And you know what? They’re right. On my first visit, after hemming and hawing over the quiche of the day or the scrambled egg and cheddar Panini, I went with the quiche – a most fortuitous decision. It was remarkable. Large, generous strips of prosciutto and mushrooms were layered in custard so smooth and rich that both Uptown Girl and I swooned after our first bite. The crust was wonderful too, buttery and flaky and crisp.

My side of cheese grits tasted fine, but were slightly gummy. I should really stop ordering grits at restaurants. No one in town comes close to competing with the Flying Biscuits’ version.

She says:
I went with the other special of the day, an omelette with turkey, jalapenos, tomatoes, and cheddar. With this promising medley of ingredients I was expecting something spicy, but the omelette that came out was so bland the only kick associated with it was me kicking myself for not ordering the quiche! I should have known… tomatoes are way out of season and thus bound to be tasteless. The real disappointment was the jalapenos, which had as much heat as a green pepper.

I did enjoy my biscuit, though, which was vastly different from the biscuits you get at Flying Biscuit. Instead of being fat and airy, it was extremely dense and buttery, almost like a pastry crust. A sprinkling of rosemary added a touch of complexity.

He says:
On my second visit, I tried the Napoleon Complex, an excellent panini with brie, prosciutto, red onion, and fig jam on toasted focaccia. A little sweet, a little salty, a little creamy, and a little crunchy, it’s the perfect lunch time snack. And the curry carrot soup on the side was absolutely killer.

On the other hand, the ham sandwich with roasted red peppers and Dijon mustard was bland and floppy.

We say:
There are knockouts and letdowns at this quiet cafe, but with fresh ingredients and an ever-changing menu, we’ll definitely be back to stuff our bellies.

He says:



She says:



Sun in my Belly
2161 College Avenue, Atlanta, GA 30317
http://www.suninmybelly.com/index.html

BACCHANALIA

Original Post: May 2007

He says:
Ever since coming to Atlanta, Uptown Girl and I have been in search of a truly excellent restaurant. We’ve been to beautiful bistros with awful entrees and ugly diners with wonderful comfort food, but we still had not found that one place that could execute a creative, elegant dining experience from start to finish.

Enter Bacchanalia.

We’d heard about this restaurant from several sources, like Atlanta magazine and Citysearch, where it perennially tops the fine dining lists. But the label “Best restaurant in Atlanta” is thrown around far too loosely these days, and we’ve been burned one too many times to trust such sources. My parents were visiting Atlanta for the first time, however, so I figured we might as well give Bacchanalia a shot. I’m glad we did.

She says:
I will say up front that Bacchanalia is fabulous. The food (which we will get to in a moment) is clearly the star of this culinary show, with the setting and service merely there to highlight it. The restaurant is elegant and unimposing, with one window-filled wall providing a direct view into the bright and bustling kitchen. The wait staff, dressed in white tunics and black pants, appears purely utilitarian, almost stoic, and delivers impeccable service.

Of course, when we set out to Bacchanalia, we didn’t know quite what we were getting into. In other words, we weren’t expecting the $72/person prix fixe menu (sans wine). Fortunately, with a party of four ordering a different dish at each of the four courses, I can confidently say that we tasted much of what Bacchanalia has to offer.

Or should I say had to offer, considering that the menu changes frequently. Bacchanalia’s menu is comprised completely of seasonal, organic ingredients, much of which actually comes from the farm of chef duo Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison.

He says:
The quality of Bacchanalia’s ingredients came through right away in the appetizers. The pickled wild ramp risotto was creamy and indulgent, the Gulf white shrimp particularly savory. And the gulf crab fritter was marvelous, by far the finest crab cake I have ever tasted. The exterior is flash-fried so that it yields with a touch of the fork, and the shredded crab within is so fresh it actually reminded me of the open ocean.

She says:
I agree… the crab fritter was possibly the best dish of the entire meal. Unlike many other crab cakes, there is little filler to drown out the crab meat. It has a Thai pepper “essence” that makes it slightly sweet, slightly spicy, and completely delicious. My least favorite appetizer was the California snails… they seemed bland in comparison to the vivid flavors of the other appetizers.

For the main course, Downtown Boy’s mom and I avoided the red meat and shared the Florida black grouper and cured duck breast. The grouper was the best of all our entrees. It was cooked to perfection… the delicate white meat seared just enough to leave the outside slightly crispy. The accompanying artichokes, rainbow chard, and fennel were so tasty that I saved them for my last bite. The duck breast was also good, but again, the accompaniments (wild onions, morel mushrooms, and ramp broth) really brought the flavor. It goes to show that using local, seasonal ingredients makes a huge difference.

He says:
The pan-roasted lamb loin I ordered was tender but a bit too polite for my taste. Red meat should be unruly and bloody, and Bacchanalia’s pretty, slender medallions were not at the same level as that excellent black grouper. The same went for the prime tenderloin; it was tame when it should have been adventurous. Additionally, the roasted marrow served with it was a flavorless spoonful of melted fat, which left us all rather puzzled. All this said, both my father and I cleaned our plates.

She says:
While I didn’t taste the lamb or tenderloin, I think one of Bacchanalia’s strengths is the subtle complexities of its dishes. This does not translate into the “unruly and bloody” meat you might find at a steakhouse, but rather the quiet undertones of garlic and onion imparted to duck by ramp broth.

Next we moved to the “cheese and contrast” course. I wish this course were always a part of meals! The fresh goat’s milk cheese came with local beets in a variety of styles: roasted, macerated, raw, and most creatively, sorbet. Who knew that beets could be so interesting? The soft and mild Stracchino came with strawberries and balsamic vinegar, and could have been a dessert by itself. My favorite was the Parmigiano-Reggiano and Medjool date pairing. The dates were meaty and sweet, a perfect contrast to the salty parmesan.

He says:
And the Manchego and white anchovies were a phenomenal pairing, the smoothness of the former mitigating the intense saltiness of the latter. The cheese platters matched the appetizers in their execution and surpassed them for their innovation.

She says:
And then dessert. Ahhh… I had the warm Valrhona chocolate cake, which is pure chocolate decadence. Molten chocolate cake is a great dessert for restaurants to serve, as it seems impressively difficult and is deliciously rich. However, knowing how simple it is to make (and easily improved by using high quality chocolate) I wouldn’t give this one my top vote (although I will pick up their pairing of mint ice cream). In terms of pure deliciousness, the winner was the banana cream pie. It was neither heavy nor overly sweet, with a fairly dominant banana flavor. And the cornmeal crust was of perfect consistency… similar to the crumbliness of a graham-cracker crust, but less sweet and buttery. My least favorite was Downtown Boy’s dessert.

He says:
Hey, I really liked my orange creamsicle panna cotta! Perhaps you need to be a true popsicle fan to enjoy this novel take on a Good Humor favorite. The two-tiered egg custard had a cream bottom layer and a bright orange top… it really did taste like a creamsicle. The poached rhubarb on the side added some bite to this offbeat dessert. My father’s chipotle chocolate pecan tart was the most creative dessert of the night. The attack was sweet but the finish quite spicy as the pepper kicked in, a complex trick that left our mouths buzzing.

She says:
Of course, this wasn’t the end of the meal. Following dessert, the waiter dropped off a sampling of cookies and truffles from the pastry chef. And even as we walked out of the restaurant, the attached bakery handed us a couple of small bags of cookies for the road.

He says:
And this is on top of all the palette cleansers delivered between each course, each one better than most entrées in any other restaurant. My favorite was the asparagus soup. It was cool and refreshing, the light notes of asparagus carefully distilled and accented with a touch of crème fraiche. Delicious.

We say:
Bacchanalia is the real deal. It rises above the culinary clutter of the Atlanta restaurant scene to provide a true fine-dining experience. Until further notice, it deserves the title “Best Restaurant in Atlanta.”




Update: December 2008

She says:
Second time around for Downtown Boy and me, and it’s just as fantabulous. The appetizers are probably Bacchanalia’s strongest suit… I was dying to order the Gulf crab fritter again (still on the menu!) but instead I chose the potato gnocchi. The dish was uber creamy and delicious, the gnocchi was tender without being gummy and adorned with a pile of delicate chanterelle mushrooms.

He says:
I too was tempted by the crab fritter, but eventually decided to go for the veal sweetbreads. Served atop a bed of lentils, the gaminess of the veal liver came through in robust, unctuous notes. The sweetbreads could have been softer though, as I suspected they were slightly overcooked.

She says:
Remembering Bacchanalia’s forte for fish, we split the Gulf Red Snapper entrée and the Nantucket Bay scallops. The small bay scallops were wonderful – mildly sweet, tender, the tops seared and salty enough to perfectly compliment the sweetness. Unlike other entrees, the sides weren’t much to speak of… a few slivers of carrots didn’t add much.

As for the snapper, I was very disappointed in this dish -- it was really dry and tasted cheap. I let Downtown Boy eat most of my portion.

He says:
I didn’t have a major problem with the snapper, but I agree with Uptown Girl that this dish was unremarkable. It was prepared simply to let the fish do to the talking, but it lacked any genuine flavor. Alas, it appears Bacchanalia doesn’t do everything perfectly!

For the cheese and contrast platter, I had a wonderful pairing of pears, Point Reyes blue cheese, and candied walnuts. The marvel of this dish is that I don’t care for any of these ingredients by themselves, but when taken together the resulting combination is a playful swirl of sweet, salty, creamy, and refreshing notes. Terrific!

She says:
I went with the dates and parmigiano-reggiano, which I loved on our previous visit.

As for dessert I chose the chipotle sweet potato fried pie, which was as interesting as it sounds. Little wonton-like pastries were filled with pureed sweet potato and served with a sprinkling of spicy chipotle. I’m not sold on sweet potato as a pie filling – it wasn’t sweet enough, for one – but the pastry was wonderful, with a lightness that reminded me of a sopapilla. Mexican chocolate ice cream and toasted meringue (aka marshmallow) sat on the side, which added some of the missing sweetness from the potato.

He says:
I wanted to see what Bacchanalia could do with a pistachio pear butter tart, and they didn’t disappoint. The overwhelming “butteriness” of the crust was this dessert’s main highlight, which served to accentuate the brown sugar crumbles and the soft, fresh pears within. It’s easily one of the best tarts I’ve ever had.

We say:
While the breathtaking magic that comes with eating at Bacchanalia for the first time has ebbed somewhat, this restaurant still operates at a level that few other Atlanta eateries can match. The city’s best restaurant in 2007, it retains that crown in 2008.




Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, GA 30318
http://www.starprovisions.com/

ZINGERMAN'S (Ann Arbor, MI)

He says:
I used to live two blocks away from Zingerman’s delicatessen, and long before ever stepping inside myself, I knew that I was in the presence of greatness. Maybe it was seeing the long lines of people standing in the freezing rain on football Saturdays, happily waiting for one of Zingerman’s famous sandwiches. Maybe it was because foodie friends in New York got wide-eyed whenever I mentioned I lived in Ann Arbor, MI and immediately asked if I’d eaten at Zingerman’s yet. Maybe it was because my roommate came home one day and gave me slice of chili cheddar bread, a crusty loaf so delicious and so sublime that I never looked at bread the same way again.

To say that Zingerman’s is the best delicatessen in the world doesn’t do justice to this Ann Arbor institution. Owners Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig love food, and for over 20 years they have crossed the globe seeking out the world’s best ingredients (cheeses, coffee beans, cured meats, olive oils, the list goes on ...), mastered the art of bread-baking and sandwich-making, and wedded this all with top-notch customer service. The result is nothing less than the gastronomic mecca of America.

She says:
The deli and coffee house are lodged in two red-brick buildings in the middle of the historic Kerrytown neighborhood. While Zingerman’s has grown to include a creamery, coffee roaster, and Southern diner (The Roadhouse), the owners have stuck to a forward-thinking business plan that ensures the quality of their food and service isn’t jeopardized in the name of expansion. You can, however, get their fabulous foods shipped anywhere in America through their mail order service.

Speaking of customer service … it’s one more area in which Zingerman’s excels. Their emphasis on over-the-top friendliness is legendary (heck, they even offer customer service training seminars!). It’s not unusual to have a long hungry line behind you as you order your sandwiches, but I guarantee the server will greet you with a bright smile, patiently help you maneuver the extensive menu, and even provide free samples to help you make your decision.

He says:
There are dozens of wonderful sandwiches on Zingerman’s menu, but if you asked for my favorite, I’d have to go with #48, Binny’s Brooklyn Reuben. To this day it remains the best sandwich I’ve ever had. Situated between two crusty slices of grilled pumpernickel are Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and slices of pastrami so fatty and molten that to taste it for the first time is a transformative moment. The balance of salty, sour, and creamy elements in this sandwich is unparalleled.

She says:
My favorite item is actually not a sandwich, but Stewart’s Farmer’s Hash. The mix of roasted sweet potatoes, peppers, spinach and shallots is SO delicious… The sweet potatoes and fried shallots add a hint of sweetness to the savory blend, which is all perfectly balanced with a dip of sour cream. Recently I’ve also tried Abra’s Nutty Yard Bread, a chicken salad set on pecan raisin bread. Again, the sweet/savory combo works well, and the nutty bread adds a fabulous texture. I think that’s what makes Zingerman’s sandwiches so unique (besides the top notch ingredients) – their ability to create combinations as innovative as they are tasty.

On my last visit to Zingerman’s I ordered Jay’s BBQ Chicken sandwich. The Amish chicken is smothered in Zingerman’s own BBQ sauce, topped with Vermont cheddar, and served on a bun. The rich, sweet BBQ sauce makes this new entry irresistible.

He says:
I usually order the deep-fried knish as well, the best off-the-menu item in any restaurant, ever. A regular potato knish is deep-fried so the interior turns piping hot and the usually doughy skin becomes golden brown and extra crunchy, perfect for dipping with the accompanying spicy mustard.

If I’m not too full, I head over to the coffee shop next door and order my second favorite off-the-menu item, an ice cream sandwich made from graham crackers and Zingerman’s Creamery gelato. The thick, crunchy grahams are made in-house and the gelato is among the best you’ll find outside of Italy.

She says:
Zingerman’s Next Door is my favorite place to linger. There you can sample their uber-rich gelato, browse a global selection of chocolates, admire their cakes (Hummingbird is the best!), sample their yummy pastries, or order some of the best coffee around.
I am absolutely in love with their mochas. The quality of the coffee contributes to their perfection, but even more important is the excellent chocolate they use. The end result is a sweet, rich, caffeinated treat with no hint of any icky aftertaste you often get with a less superior mocha.

We say:
We’ve barely begun describing all of the wonderful items available at Zingerman’s. We could go on and on, but really, this is a place you must experience for yourself!




Zingerman’s
422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104
http://www.zingermans.com/