He says:
Miller Union is Atlanta’s version of Cakes & Ale. Like that popular Decatur restaurant, Miller Union revitalizes classic dishes with top-notch ingredients, simple preparation, and a singular focus on flavor. While Cakes & Ale’s New American offerings are more worldly (much like Decatur itself), Miller Union stays grounded in tradition. From shrimp & grits to fried okra to low-country grouper, this restaurant has the Deep South infused in its menu.
She says:
Using seasonal ingredients from local farmers seems to be a la mode for new restaurants these days, and, happily, Miller Union is no exception. The real sell, though is the monthly Harvest Dinner. On the third Thursday of each month, the chef serves a three-course family-style supper. What could be homier than enjoying rustic, farm-to-table dishes with a bunch of strangers? It turned out to be one of the most fun dining experiences I’ve had in awhile. By the time the entrée was served, we were cracking jokes about dirty uncles and the eccentricities of rural Georgia.
The chilled potato leek soup was a standard, yet vibrant, rendition of this classic. One of the most outstanding dishes was the arugula salad, with notably fresh greens, cucumber, and crumbles of feta doused in a robust vinaigrette.
The entrée – frogmore stew – was a smorgasbord of potatoes, onions, shrimp, sausage, and corn on the cob. The simplicity of the dish seemed promising, but it was somewhat of a disappointment, mostly because the unpleasantly smoky flavor of the sausage overwhelmed everything else.
He says:
I actually enjoyed the smokiness, but I agree the stew was a one-note dish and a missed opportunity. If you’re going to let the ingredients do the talking in a minimalist stew, then some of the other flavors have gotta sing.
Of the two side items – field peas with heirloom cherry tomatoes and hush puppies – the latter was superior. Fried to a deep golden brown perfection and paired with two dipping sauces, our table couldn’t get enough of them.
However, the night’s true standout dish was the blueberry crisp. The blueberries were bold and the crisp was a buttery, crunchy, brown sugar delight. With a dollop of silky cinnamon ice cream on top, this dessert is reason enough to visit Miller Union.
We say:
Miller Union is a welcome addition to the booming West Side. It’s a tad too expensive, and like Cakes & Ale it doesn’t challenge the palette, but it also might be the best true Southern restaurant in Atlanta. And, damn, that is some awesome blueberry crisp.
Miller Union
999 Brady Avenue, Atlanta, GA 30318
