Friday, December 21, 2007

TUPELO HONEY CAFE

She says:
While in Asheville, we also re-visited one of my favorite spots - Tupelo Honey Café. As expected, we waited outside for a good 30 minutes before getting in for a late lunch. This is how we found the restaurant in the first place... If there are a dozen people waiting outside, it must be good, right?

Even though the contemporary Southern cuisine Tupelo Honey Café is cooking up is actually pretty healthy and environmentally savvy, it still satisfies the craving for some good old comfort food. My nutty fried chicken was made with organic, free-range chicken scaloppine (cutlets that are pounded so that the chicken is thin for frying), and didn't have the slightest hint of oiliness. It was smothered in creamy gravy and came with some scrumptious veggies - asparagus and mashed sweet potatoes (though the potatoes could have been creamier) - and, of course, a biscuit. Overall, I wouldn't say the food is extraordinary, but comforting and wholesome - yes.

He says:
I had the fried chicken on my first visit to Tupelo, and I agree with Uptown Girl's assessment; it's good but it won't blow your mind. The same thing can be said about the grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup I ordered for lunch. The grilled cheese can be ordered with two types of cheese (choices include swiss, cheddar, brie, havarti, gorgonzola, goat, or pimento) on Texas toast. I opted for the Brie and cheddar. The result was pretty darn good - how can a grilled cheese not be? - but it could have been magnificent if Tupelo had used higher quality cheeses. A sharper cheddar would have contrasted beautifully with a rich, double-cream Brie, but Tupelo settles for generic cheeses. Consequently the sandwich doesn't live up to its potential.

A side order of pesto grit cakes sounded promising but didn't properly execute; the pesto wasn't strong enough to liven up the grits. But while my meal was a little shaky, the atmosphere more than made up for it.

She says:
Tupelo Honey is a casual place, bustling with the comings and goings of customers and the informal service of hippie waitresses. We unknowingly got the best seats in the house - the kitchen counter. We took them in order to get seated faster, but sitting next to each other at the wide wooden counter was far more intimate than staring across the expansive tables that fill the café. Plus we got to watch the cooks in action, jovially joking around as they grilled chicken and sautéed vegetables.

We say:
Whether it's the contemporary spin on southern cooking, the relaxed atmosphere of the café itself, or just that it's in a great location and has a great name, there's something about Tupelo Honey that really draws a crowd ... so be prepared to wait!




Tupelo Honey Café

12 College Street, Asheville, NC 28801
http://www.tupelohoneycafe.com/

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

TABLE

He says:
When Uptown Girl and I first stumbled across Table while wandering the charming back alleyways of Asheville, NC last year, this upscale eatery seemed, at least to me, nothing short of a revelation. While most of the other restaurants in the vicinity were folksy establishments serving mediocre platters on heavy china, Table offered itself as a clear counterpoint of smart design and good taste. With its square serving dishes and waiters garbed in avant-garde black, let's just say Table seems more Upper East Side than Cold Mountain.

But great food always speaks for itself, and Table does plenty of talking. The Croque-monsieur I ordered on that initial brunchtime visit was simply stupendous, perhaps the best single dish I had tasted since moving to the Southeast. The combination of grilled ham, Gruyere cheese, and béchamel sauce appears deceptively simple at first, but that stunningly complex first bite will quickly convince you otherwise.

She says:
A year later, we were back in Asheville, and with Downtown Boy's enthusiasm for that Croque-monsieur unwavering, a trip back to Table was inevitable. This time it was for dinner.

We started with a delicious and delicate appetizer of escargot, which came, untraditionally, mixed with a light cream sauce on a small bed of pappardelle (don't quote me on the cream sauce).

I also enjoyed my North Carolina scallops, which were very fresh and flawlessly seared. They came with a fruit puree (my memory is eluding me on the details of this one too), which contrasted nicely with the scallops and really made the dish. But the best part was actually the grapefruit, radicchio and lobster salad. You can probably add lobster to any salad and make it taste great, but the sweet bitterness of the grapefruit and the subtle richness of the lobster meat made a particularly great combo.

He says:
The lamb shank served with kale and potato gratin is a true gut-buster, nearly rivaling Vinocity's "mastodon" pork shank. If the Vinocity's offering was the size of a varsity football, then Table's was the JV version. Bigger isn't always better though, and I would have gladly sacrificed half my plate for a more tender cut with a bolder and more sophisticated braising sauce. I wasn't too wild for the sauted kale either, but the mushroom potato gratin was superb. Chef-owners Jacob and Alicia Sessoms certainly have the skills to perform magic with their cooking, but I'm not sure if it applies to all their entrees ... at least not yet. Ultimately though, I simply cannot complain about the food at Table, especially when they serve such an excellent cup of post-dinner coffee.

We say:
The only thing we can really complain about is the price, which the website mistakenly describes as "moderately priced." Shrinking wallets aside, Table is the fine-dining gem of Asheville.



Table

48 College Street, Asheville, NC 28801
http://www.tableasheville.com/

Saturday, December 15, 2007

SALA

He says:
When it comes right down to it, Sala doesn’t dazzle you with its food, even if it was rated the best Mexican restaurant in Atlanta by Citysearch in 2007. Nevertheless, the festive atmosphere and friendliness of the staff make a visit to this Virginia Highland mainstay a worthwhile trip.

The first thing you might notice about Sala is the wondrous array of Aztec masks jutting from the wine-colored walls; it’s a quirky touch of personality. The second thing you might notice is just how well the restaurant is laid out. The interior tables and booths along the perimeter are placed the perfect distance away such that the surrounding conversations give the place a lively buzz without rising to an obnoxious volume. On our last visit, even the screaming gaggle of girlfriends trading Christmas gifts two tables over didn’t entirely distract us from our meal.

She says:
None of the entrees were calling to me that night, so I sampled a few appetizers instead. The orange and jicama salad was fresh and zingy, and the duck taquitos were crispy and meaty, although the "duckiness" really didn’t stand out. The chile relleno was my favorite… The monstrous poblano chile (seriously, this is the biggest chile I’ve ever seen!) was stuffed with cheese and coated with chipotle sauce. The vivid and spicy flavor of the poblano distinguished it from other chile rellenos I’ve had.

He says:
The wood-roasted pork with tomatillo-cascabel sauce and Oaxacan cheese I ordered was a serviceable if unspectacular dish. The pork was not as tender as I would have liked, and it relied almost entirely on the zesty cascabel sauce for its flavor. However, even this average platter stood head and shoulders over the uber-bland vanilla egg custard that followed for dessert.

We say:
Sala is not a place for gourmands, but its overall charm can make for a great night out with friends.



Sala
1186 N. Highland Avenue, Atlanta, GA 30306
http://www.sala-atlanta.com/index.htm

Friday, November 16, 2007

PANAHAR

She says:
It seems as though everyone in Atlanta either loves or hates Panahar. Reviews on CitySearch range from calling the Bangladeshi restaurant “homey” and “one of the best restaurants in Atlanta” to warning: “If you or your parents are from the Indian subcontinent or ANYWHERE in South Asia (or just know authentic when you taste it) DO NOT GO HERE!!!” Similarly, reports on the service either tout it as incredibly attentive or excruciatingly slow.

First conclusion: the service is excruciatingly slow. We arrived on a Saturday evening around 8:00, assuming that a restaurant in a Buford Highway strip mall wouldn’t have a problem finding seats for two. Guess we assumed wrong. The owner chided us for not making reservations. But he also said he could seat us in 15 minutes. After 30 long minutes we were finally seated. (During this time we came to our second conclusion, that the irate CitySearch reviewer’s warning had in fact been heeded: there was no one of South Asian descent anywhere near this place.)

But Panahar’s service is also incredibly attentive. Almost to a flaw. The owner, Mirza, is a tad on the overbearing side, and, acting as host, waiter, and your new best friend, is hard to avoid. When I asked what type of sauce had come with our appetizer, he elaborately described exactly how the sauce was made, detailing each of the 10 or so ingredients. Later on, as we paid our bill, he presented us with a coupon and proceeded to explain no fewer than 6 times that it could be used unlimited times. This type of service can go either way – it’ll either make you feel right at home or slightly violated.

He says:
Personally, I’m offput by Mirza’s enthusiasm. The first time I ate at Panahar was a slow Wednesday evening when he hovered over our table, insisting we order mango lassi and lauding the deliciousness of his chicken curries. I find this strange since curries are where Panahar stumbles the most; all the ones I’ve tried are goopy and generic. On that first visit Mirza also insisted that we order the cheese naan (a truly horrendous suggestion by the way – slices of American cheese baked onto naan? WTF?!), and afterwards he stood over our table for a good 45 seconds grinning like a fool while we sampled it.

Fortunately I find Mirza handles certain dishes better than he does personal space. On Saturday we started with an appetizer plate of pakoras, chicken shingaara, and vegetable shingaara (shingaaras are similar to samosas). The chicken shingaara lacked real flavor, but the vegetable one had a tasty potato, pea, and herb stuffing with an outer shell fried to a pleasant crisp.

For the main course I ordered the chicken tikka, which comes sizzling on a cast iron pan with a generous helping of onions. Indian restaurants often over-grill their breast meat, leaving them dry and tough, but Panahar got it just right. The meat is seasoned as well as one can hope for, neither too mild nor too hot.

She says:

I was happy to see one of my favorite Indian dishes on the menu, Matar Paneer, which I had been craving for weeks. Although I’ve had better versions, I’ve also had far worse. The sauce was creamy and pleasantly seasoned, though it was a little heavy on the peas and light on the cheese.

We say:
Panahar’s food is nothing mind blowing, but since options for South Asian food are limited in Atlanta (and since we have a coupon we can use unlimited times), we might go back. After making reservations, of course.

She says:



He says:

Because of Mirza …



Panahar

3377 Buford Hwy. Suite 1060, Atlanta, GA 30329
http://www.panahar.com

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

TIN SHED

He says:
Pop quiz, fellow food-lovers:

When you sit down for a hearty Sunday brunch at Portland’s famous Tin Shed, do you order:
a) Potato pancakes
b) Scrambled eggs
c) Biscuits and gravy
d) All of the above

If you chose D, like I did, what you get is the “Roll Over,” the most over-the-top breakfast entrée I have ever come across. The potato pancake is 1-2 pounds of grated potatoes mixed with herbs and cream, perfectly seared crunchy on the outside and tender within. On top of the potato pancake, the crazed chefs at Tin Shed heap an entire pan of scrambled eggs. But they don’t stop there … that would be too modest. On top of that, they pour a generous helping of applewood smoked bacon gravy, and throw a buttermilk biscuit on the side for good measure.

Call it messy. Call it obscene. Call it an affront to healthy eating. Call it what you want, but it is hard to deny that this breakfast smorgasbord is anything but delicious. Who knew that a gigantic mix of eggs, potatoes, and gravy could be so damn good?

She says:
I have to add that no hash browns or herb-roasted potatoes can ever compete with Tin Shed’s potato pancakes. They are absolutely to die for. Along with the potato pancakes (every last bite of which I scarfed down like a starving Irishman), I had the “Sweet Chix” – scrambled eggs mixed with chicken-apple sausage, sweet onion, basil, and roasted red peppers, and topped with brie and green apples. Mmm. Mmm. Mmm. The chicken sausage really made the dish. How fabulous that they offer chicken sausage!

He says:
Obviously the proprietors of Tin Shed are onto something. Their philosophy is that food delivers not only caloric energy, but spiritual energy as well, and to that end they emphasize fresh, organic ingredients throughout their voluminous menu. All of their chicken, beef, and eggs are free-range. Coffee is shade-grown. Milk is hormone-free.

She says:
This same energy pervades the entire café, which is an actual tin shed on Alberta Street. We arrived fairly early on a Sunday morning, and the sidewalks were already overflowing with patrons sipping on cups of free coffee and mingling in small groups. The café attracts a young crowd, mostly hipster and/or crunchy customers with babies or dogs or hangovers in tow, and sometimes all three at once. The most coveted spots are the café’s outdoor patio (complete with a bricked fireplace) and lovely garden area, but the shed’s indoor seating is a fun, chaotic whirl of waitresses balancing platters and cooks flipping pancakes. You really can’t go wrong no matter where you sit.

We say:
If you can’t tell by now, we love this place. If you live in Portland, go there now! If you don’t, start looking for plane tickets…



Tin Shed Garden Café
1438 NE Alberta Street, Portland, OR 97211
http://www.tinshedgardencafe.com/index.html

KISAKU

She says:
In Seattle, there exists a little-known neighborhood called Tangletown. In that small neighborhood, you can find all the Pacific Northwest basics – an independent coffee shop, a brewpub, a donut shop, and, of course, a sushi restaurant.

Kisaku means “frank and easy going,” and is clearly striving to be a true neighborhood joint… no more, no less. The restaurant is much nicer than your typical hole-in-the-wall, but it also avoids uber-trendy touches, so in terms of ambiance, it lives up to it’s aspirations as a friendly neighborhood haunt.

He says:
Since sushi dinners often leave me hungry, I usually order the largest platter possible. On this occasion I opted for the Sushi Combination M, 8 pieces of sushi (tuna, salmon, yellowtail, white fish, shrimp, scallop, surf clam, and octopus), a tuna roll, and miso soup. Aside from the shrimp and octopus, which I found slightly rubbery, the fish was very good. The tuna was easily the best, packing the freshest flavor in each morsel.

She says:
My mom and I sampled several of the rolls, although none of them wowed us. The spiciness of the spicy tuna roll overwhelmed the actual flavor of the tuna; similarly, all I could taste in the Kisaku roll (consisting of scallop, crab, mayo, and flying fish eggs) was the mayo. The Alaska roll, with grilled salmon skin, didn’t come with high expectations, so it was fine. The best, and most balanced, was the Green Lake roll, since none of the ingredients – including salmon, fish eggs, asparagus, avocado, and marinated seaweed – dominated the roll.

We also sampled two types of nigiri. The eel was sweet and tender. The Otoro (very fatty tuna) tasted like a big bite of fat. I think that’s the point, but neither my mom or I were into it – we wanted to taste the tuna flavor, which was notably absent.

He says:
I agree, Kisaku’s Otoro didn’t carry enough “tuna-ness” to balance the fat. I have had excellent Otoro in other sushi restaurants though, and believe me, when that fat melts and mingles on the tongue … all I can say is “Wow!”

We finished dinner off with two desserts. The first was sweet potato that had been pureed into a thick, orange custard and deep-fried in wonton shells. Served hot with ice cream and red bean paste on the side, this was an innovative and delicious dish.

The second dessert was a bland cake roll, filled with fruit and whipped cream. You can find this type of cake in any mediocre Chinese bakery… what such a disappointing dish is doing in a Japanese restaurant beats me.

We say:
If we lived in Tangletown, we’d definitely stop at Kisaku for some nigiri and warm sake. Just skip the cake!



Kisaku

2101 N. 55th St. #100, Seattle, WA 98103
http://www.kisaku.com

Thursday, November 8, 2007

RED MILL BURGERS

He says:
It seems every major city has at least one legendary burger shack, and in Seattle that place is Red Mill Burgers. Red Mill occupies a cozy, two-room space on Phinney Ridge, where the only decoration in sight (aside from the first-aid poster on how to help choking victims) is a famously bad painting of a red windmill that looks like it was salvaged from a junk yard. Like most of the best burger restaurants in America, Red Mill doesn’t worry too much about its decor. That’s because their food more than makes up for any deficiencies in interior design.

The double bacon deluxe cheeseburger I ordered was sublime. The two quarter-pound patties were greasy and delicious, with the salty crunch of pepper bacon, the ooze of American cheese, and the smoky flavors of the “secret” Red Mill Sauce all coming together in a gastronomic union far exceeding the sum of its parts. To top it off, the bun is toasted; it’s a small touch I always appreciate.

The only drawback, in my opinion, is that the burger patties are thin and thus not cooked to order. I asked for my hamburger rare and it came out medium. The patties were still plenty juicy though, so this is a minor quibble.

She says:
The trip to Red Mill Burgers, if you couldn’t guess, was for Downtown Boy’s dining pleasure. (Don’t worry – we have an equitable relationship… following Red Mill, we toured Seattle’s fabulous new chocolate factory, Theo Chocolate.) There’s just not that much to say about veggie burgers… they’re either disgusting, or pretty good. There’s not a lot of “gastromonic union” happening with veggie burgers. So the verdict on Red Mill’s veggie options – pretty good.

I will rave about the milkshakes. Thick, creamy, and made with real ice cream, my chocolate milk shake improved this dining experience ten-fold.

He says:
My Oreo shake was delicious as well. The onion rings are too donut-like for my tastes, but they round out an artery-clogging meal quite nicely.

She says:
Good burgers, but not nearly as memorable as the chocolate factory.



He says:
Head to Red Mill Burgers for some of the greasiest – and best – burgers in America.



Red Mill Burgers

312 N. 67th Street, Seattle, WA 98103
http://www.redmillburgers.com/index.htm

COUPAGE

She says:
My first visit to this charming restaurant in Seattle’s Madrona neighborhood was in early August, to celebrate my dad’s birthday. Following a fabulous dinner, I knew that I had to take Downtown Boy back. I was sure that he would love it as much as me (and GQ magazine, which recently named it the restaurant to dine at on a weekend getaway to Seattle). Luckily for us, the stars aligned…

The restaurant itself is delightful. The cool blue walls are warmed by booths the color of red wine, and a black and white mural covers the upper half of one wall with Parisian-style sketches of couples in a swirling café. It’s a small space, and both times I was there it was relatively empty, which made it feel all the more intimate.

Coupage is French for “blending,” which is exactly what the chef, Thomas Hurley, does with his flavors (largely Asian) and cooking techniques (mainly French). The result is a menu full of unique and delicious items.

He says:
We started dinner off with the pumpkin custard crab cakes. The freshness of the crab came through easily enough, but I had difficulty registering the pumpkin. Perhaps the palettes of those with finer sensibilities can glean the pumpkin flavor in the custard, but I couldn’t. To me it simply tasted like a pretty good crab cake.

She says:
On my first visit, I had roasted duck breast that was cooked to perfection – juicy and tender, with a slender line of fat bordering each slice of meat. The details of the rest of my meal are hazy to me now, but I remember being incredibly impressed by the side dishes as well (look at the picture and use your imagination to fill in the details).

My second time around, the menu had changed with the season, and I have to admit to being rather disappointed. It seemed heavily weighted toward beef and pork, neither of which I eat. Even the duck dish contained venison sausage. In this situation, I would normally choose a fish dish instead, but the offerings included Chilean sea bass, which is a big no-no according to the venerable Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Fortunately, my mom agreed to split the Apple Wood mesquite smoked chicken, which serves two. As far as chicken goes, this is probably as good as it gets. The meat was incredibly soft and not the least bit dry, and was saturated with complex smoky undertones. The chicken liver fried rice that came with was a little overpowering, mainly because I don’t like the taste of liver.

He says:
I ordered the famous “Coupage burger,” a freshly ground short rib patty served with seared foie gras, red onion kimchi, and tomato confit on a kaiser roll. It also comes with three different dipping sauces. I’ve had chichi burgers in the past, and this is one of the best of that fashionable genre. The meat was perfectly grilled, and the kimchi’s bite offset the richness of the foie gras – an excellent pairing. Still, when it comes to burgers, I believe simplicity rules. At the end of the day, I prefer a bold, juicy cheeseburger from Red Mill or Bartley’s over the subtle elements of a “glamburger.”

She says:
Over the course of my two visits to Coupage, I managed to try five different desserts, all of which were very good. My favorite was the opera gateau, whose distinct orange flavor, combined with rich chocolate and light layers of cake, really made it stand out.

Dinner at this enchanting neighborhood spot is not a cheap endeavor, but it’s worth the splurge. Although the menu could use some fine-tuning to be more environmentally friendly (not an unreasonable request in Seattle), the food itself is fabulous.



He says:

Without question Coupage has got it going on. But I’d need more than a fancy hamburger to give it five forks.



Coupage

http://www.coupageseattle.com/
1404 34th Ave, Seattle, WA 98122

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

SIX FEET UNDER (Grant Park)

She says:
When I think of Atlanta, Six Feet Under absolutely matches my image of this city (or at least one distinct corner of it). The menu is packed with Southern specialties, from hush puppies to fried okra, and is known and loved for its excellent catfish. And unlike Mary Mac’s and other similarly staid restaurants, Six Feet Under has a gritty character that attracts hillbillies and hipsters alike. Waiting for a table outside with us were parties of various ages, sizes, colors, and tattooedness.

A seat on the patio of the original Grant Park location, which overlooks the Oakland Cemetery, is a coveted spot on a warm Atlanta evening. Unluckily for us, the night we visited was downright chilly, and we were forced to zip up our sweatshirts and huddle over our citronella candle just to stay warm. The service was quick and friendly though, making up for the 45 minute wait and less-than-friendly hostess.

We started out with fried green tomatoes, lump crab cakes, and alligator bites (because where else will you ever get to order alligator bites?). The tomatoes were lightly fried and not too oily, and came with a zingy horseradish sauce. The crab cakes didn’t hold together, crumbling at the touch of a fork, but I attributed this to a lot of crab meat and not much filler, as attested to by the vivid crab flavor. And the alligator bites? Tastes like chicken. (Chicken nuggets, to be exact.)

He says:
According to the menu, the Georgia Fried Catfish I ordered was “cornmeal breaded & fried to perfection.” You know what? It’s right on. The catfish was the best item of the night. Incredibly fresh, the silky texture of the catfish fillet came through with every bite, contrasting beautifully with the definitive crunch of the fried exterior. The side of corn on the cob isn’t anything special though, and the hush puppies are downright lousy, so my recommendation is to load up on the fried green tomatoes and alligator bites beforehand.

She says:
DB, you should have said something earlier, because I would have eaten your entire ear of sweet corn, rather than just stealing bites when you weren’t looking!

I went for the shrimp and grits. The dish wasn’t bad… the grits were creamy, the blackened shrimp large and juicy and not overly seasoned… It was just one of those meals where after a few bites, I was tired of eating. The dish would have benefited from more of the asparagus, red pepper, and fried leeks and onions to enhance its complexity.

We say:
Six Feet Under is a great spot to bring out-of-towners to enjoy some real Southern cooking. But line up early and order carefully – the menu is definitely hit or miss.




Six Feet Under (Grant Park)

415 Memorial Drive S.E., Atlanta, GA 30312
http://www.sixfeetunderatlanta.com

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

TAMARIND SEED

He says:
Tamarind Seed (formerly known as Tamarind) has been making waves in Atlanta ever since it re-opened in Colony Square earlier this year. Creative Loafing called it a “transcendent food experience.” The editors at Citysearch have named it the best Thai in town. So have several of our friends. And you know what? They’re right. After just one visit, Uptown Girl and I are in full agreement that Tamarind Seed sets the standard for Thai cuisine in Atlanta.

Tamarind Seed eschews the hokey bamboo cottage chic of other Thai eateries and instead embraces the sleek glossiness of its Midtown neighbors. Subtle arrangements of flowers and spice jars are recessed into the otherwise spartan walls. A humongous flat screen TV hovers over the bar and plays ESPN highlights. Let’s just say the décor is more Crescent Street than Patpong Road.

She says:
We started out with spring rolls for appetizers. The old standard didn’t disappoint. The rolls were crispy and not too oily, and the dipping sauce drizzled over the plate added a welcome tanginess to the veggie-filled rolls.

I ordered the Siam Chicken as my entrée mostly because it comes in a hollowed-out pineapple shell, but I was pleasantly surprised by the deliciousness of the dish. The pieces of chicken were slightly breaded and crispy on the outside, but tender and meaty inside. It came together very well with the sweet and spicy sauce, which was embellished with cashews, mushrooms, and pineapple chunks.

He says:
Likewise, the grouper in green curry was a wonderful dish. The fish had been seared just long enough to give the edges a pleasant crunch and yet short enough to maintain the interior’s incredible tenderness. The green curry had greater complexity than what you’d find at Surin or MaLi; the coconut and curry accents had a greater clarity and lighter touch than the sauces at those establishments. Tamarind Seed’s dedication to fresh, high-quality ingredients truly comes through in a dish like this.

The Pad Kee Mao was another well-executed dish, with the noodles tender and springy for the perfect mouth-feel. In my experience, if a Thai restaurant can deliver a simple noodle dish like Pad Thai or Pad Kee Mao with excellent results, it will deliver on pretty much everything else as well.

She says:
Out of the desserts we ordered, the fried bananas stole the show. The banana chunks were deep-fried in spring roll wrappers and served piping hot with a heaping scoop of sweet coconut ice cream on the side. Delish.

He says:
I agree, the fried bananas were dynamite. The other two desserts we ordered, the chocolate mousse cake and mango cheesecake, were serviceable but struck me as odd since they’re not really Thai desserts. I hope that Tamarind Seed will round out its menu in the future by adding a few more traditional desserts like shaved ice or sticky rice in coconut milk. After all, an authentic meal deserves an authentic finish.

We say:
Until further notice, Tamarind Seed is Atlanta’s Thai restaurant to beat.



Tamarind Seed

1175 Peachtree Rd, Atlanta, GA 30361
(404) 873-4888

Friday, September 14, 2007

SURIN OF THAILAND

He says:
If the menu at Surin reminds you of the menu at Harry & Sons, don’t worry … you’re not crazy. The same group owns both restaurants, and even though they are literally 50 feet apart from each other on Highland Ave., every single item on Surin’s menu can be found verbatim at Harry & Sons. Now that’s crazy.

Fortunately for the fans of this oddball duo (and they are legion), both restaurants consistently deliver quick service, fine curries, and a pleasant dining. From my experience, Surin gets the nod for better service. Within five minutes of ordering, the fried egg rolls hit our table. Unfortunately they were bland and generic, with an equally tepid dipping sauce. But this starter was quickly followed by the main entrees, which are stronger in comparison.

The basil duck in red sauce, which I have sampled both here and at Harry & Sons, is a consistently excellent dish. The duck meat, with skin still attached, is fatty, indulgent, and incredibly tender. Swimming in red coconut curry, it is one of the richest Thai dishes you’ll find east of the Mississippi. Hell, it’s probably richer than anything you’ll find west of it too. But I simply adore fatty foods, so that’s A-OK with me.

She says:
The flavors of the basil duck did come together well, although I don’t associate Thai food with fatty meats, and so didn’t love the dish. The Massaman curry, which we ordered with tofu, was very good though. It balanced the flavor of peanuts and coconut milk, and was not overly sweet. I cannot say the same about the Thai iced tea I ordered, however; like Harry & Sons’ version, it’s way too sweet.

The spicy noodles were also well prepared. The noodles themselves were cooked to just the right tenderness, firm and chewy, and had the delicious seared taste that only comes with the very high temperatures of a professional kitchen. And the spice added just the right amount of kick.

We say:
Harry of Thailand, oops, I mean Surin of Thailand, doesn’t compete with the best Thai in America, but it’s one of the better options in Atlanta.



Surin of Thailand

810 N. Highland Avenue, Atlanta, GA 30306
http://www.surinofthailand.com/

Monday, September 10, 2007

RIA'S BLUEBIRD

She says:
Before the mohawked hostess even seated us or brought out a delicious glass of fresh-squeezed OJ, I already liked Ria’s Bluebird. This offbeat Grant Park brunch spot has an incredibly casual and welcoming vibe. In fact, while waiting outside I’d already been befriended by a group of hipsters who seemed to be Bluebird regulars. Once inside, or rather, in the open air patio, we perused our menus to the faint guitars of Sonic Youth beating on the overhead radio.

We had heard that the pancakes at Ria’s Bluebird are the best in town, so I gave them a shot. The buttermilk pancakes are very good – fluffy and very buttery – particularly with blueberries, which is how I had them. I still prefer the pancakes at Sweet Melissa’s in Decatur, but Ria’s are a close runner-up.

He says:
The egg-lover that I am, I went straight for the special of the day. The Bluebird’s version of Eggs Benedict is an intriguing variation of an old standby; instead of sitting atop an English muffin, the two poached eggs lie over potato latkes. Unlike other potato pancakes I’ve had in the past, these latkes used mashed, rather than grated, potatoes, and were fried to perfection. The result, when paired with the eggs and hollandaise sauce, was absolutely sublime. By turns rich, creamy, and tangy, this platter was possibly the best brunch item I’ve had in Atlanta.

The cheese grits I ordered on the side were also good, though not up to par with the Flying Biscuit’s version.

We say:
Head to Ria’s Bluebird for a casually hip vibe and some of the best brunch in town.



Ria's Bluebird
421 Memorial Drive SE, Atlanta, GA. 30312
http://www.riasbluebird.com/

CAFE SUNFLOWER

She says:
Café Sunflower was an obvious choice for dinner with Downtown Boy’s vegetarian brother in town. One of the very few Atlanta restaurants that boasts an exclusively vegetarian menu, Café Sunflower gives non-carnivores the rare treat of being able to peruse an entire menu and choose something besides pasta. Situated in a Buckhead strip mall, the restaurant has an unfortunate location, but once inside the airy (albeit bland) space, the parking lots and neighboring laundry mats are forgotten.

The menu has a huge variety of dishes, ranging from fajitas comprised of soy steak to orzo eggplant lasagna. All of the dishes are on the hearty side, with plenty of faux-meat options. This is actually something I tend to avoid… when eating vegetarian, I much prefer creative combinations of seasonal fresh vegetables and straight-up tofu than the inevitable failure of making soy taste like and have the texture of meat.

He says:
I totally agree with Uptown Girl; I want my meat to taste like meat and my vegetables to taste like vegetables. Still, the couscous w/ coconut curried vegetables and tempeh was an adequate entree. The coconut curry reminded me of certain Thai curries, though the sauce lacked the spices to counteract the dish’s overall creaminess. On the other hand, my brother absolutely loved his fake lemon chicken with green beans and jasmine rice, so I suppose Sunflower Café is doing something right.

She says:
I tried the quinoa, which came with a so-so ratatouille and a slice of almond crusted tofu. The tofu was the best part of the dish, the almond crust giving it a crunchy and delicious outer coating. Obscured along one side of my plate was a vegan cucumber cream, which, once discovered, added a refreshing yet garlicky touch to the dish.

We say:
Café Sunflower is doing a decent job of holding its own in a meat-loving town, but a little competition might do it some good and help to sharpen its edges. That said, when other vegetarian visitors come to town, we’ll probably be back.



Café Sunflower
2140 Peachtree Road
Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.cafesunflower.com/