BACCHANALIA

Original Post: May 2007

He says:
Ever since coming to Atlanta, Uptown Girl and I have been in search of a truly excellent restaurant. We’ve been to beautiful bistros with awful entrees and ugly diners with wonderful comfort food, but we still had not found that one place that could execute a creative, elegant dining experience from start to finish.

Enter Bacchanalia.

We’d heard about this restaurant from several sources, like Atlanta magazine and Citysearch, where it perennially tops the fine dining lists. But the label “Best restaurant in Atlanta” is thrown around far too loosely these days, and we’ve been burned one too many times to trust such sources. My parents were visiting Atlanta for the first time, however, so I figured we might as well give Bacchanalia a shot. I’m glad we did.

She says:
I will say up front that Bacchanalia is fabulous. The food (which we will get to in a moment) is clearly the star of this culinary show, with the setting and service merely there to highlight it. The restaurant is elegant and unimposing, with one window-filled wall providing a direct view into the bright and bustling kitchen. The wait staff, dressed in white tunics and black pants, appears purely utilitarian, almost stoic, and delivers impeccable service.

Of course, when we set out to Bacchanalia, we didn’t know quite what we were getting into. In other words, we weren’t expecting the $72/person prix fixe menu (sans wine). Fortunately, with a party of four ordering a different dish at each of the four courses, I can confidently say that we tasted much of what Bacchanalia has to offer.

Or should I say had to offer, considering that the menu changes frequently. Bacchanalia’s menu is comprised completely of seasonal, organic ingredients, much of which actually comes from the farm of chef duo Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison.

He says:
The quality of Bacchanalia’s ingredients came through right away in the appetizers. The pickled wild ramp risotto was creamy and indulgent, the Gulf white shrimp particularly savory. And the gulf crab fritter was marvelous, by far the finest crab cake I have ever tasted. The exterior is flash-fried so that it yields with a touch of the fork, and the shredded crab within is so fresh it actually reminded me of the open ocean.

She says:
I agree… the crab fritter was possibly the best dish of the entire meal. Unlike many other crab cakes, there is little filler to drown out the crab meat. It has a Thai pepper “essence” that makes it slightly sweet, slightly spicy, and completely delicious. My least favorite appetizer was the California snails… they seemed bland in comparison to the vivid flavors of the other appetizers.

For the main course, Downtown Boy’s mom and I avoided the red meat and shared the Florida black grouper and cured duck breast. The grouper was the best of all our entrees. It was cooked to perfection… the delicate white meat seared just enough to leave the outside slightly crispy. The accompanying artichokes, rainbow chard, and fennel were so tasty that I saved them for my last bite. The duck breast was also good, but again, the accompaniments (wild onions, morel mushrooms, and ramp broth) really brought the flavor. It goes to show that using local, seasonal ingredients makes a huge difference.

He says:
The pan-roasted lamb loin I ordered was tender but a bit too polite for my taste. Red meat should be unruly and bloody, and Bacchanalia’s pretty, slender medallions were not at the same level as that excellent black grouper. The same went for the prime tenderloin; it was tame when it should have been adventurous. Additionally, the roasted marrow served with it was a flavorless spoonful of melted fat, which left us all rather puzzled. All this said, both my father and I cleaned our plates.

She says:
While I didn’t taste the lamb or tenderloin, I think one of Bacchanalia’s strengths is the subtle complexities of its dishes. This does not translate into the “unruly and bloody” meat you might find at a steakhouse, but rather the quiet undertones of garlic and onion imparted to duck by ramp broth.

Next we moved to the “cheese and contrast” course. I wish this course were always a part of meals! The fresh goat’s milk cheese came with local beets in a variety of styles: roasted, macerated, raw, and most creatively, sorbet. Who knew that beets could be so interesting? The soft and mild Stracchino came with strawberries and balsamic vinegar, and could have been a dessert by itself. My favorite was the Parmigiano-Reggiano and Medjool date pairing. The dates were meaty and sweet, a perfect contrast to the salty parmesan.

He says:
And the Manchego and white anchovies were a phenomenal pairing, the smoothness of the former mitigating the intense saltiness of the latter. The cheese platters matched the appetizers in their execution and surpassed them for their innovation.

She says:
And then dessert. Ahhh… I had the warm Valrhona chocolate cake, which is pure chocolate decadence. Molten chocolate cake is a great dessert for restaurants to serve, as it seems impressively difficult and is deliciously rich. However, knowing how simple it is to make (and easily improved by using high quality chocolate) I wouldn’t give this one my top vote (although I will pick up their pairing of mint ice cream). In terms of pure deliciousness, the winner was the banana cream pie. It was neither heavy nor overly sweet, with a fairly dominant banana flavor. And the cornmeal crust was of perfect consistency… similar to the crumbliness of a graham-cracker crust, but less sweet and buttery. My least favorite was Downtown Boy’s dessert.

He says:
Hey, I really liked my orange creamsicle panna cotta! Perhaps you need to be a true popsicle fan to enjoy this novel take on a Good Humor favorite. The two-tiered egg custard had a cream bottom layer and a bright orange top… it really did taste like a creamsicle. The poached rhubarb on the side added some bite to this offbeat dessert. My father’s chipotle chocolate pecan tart was the most creative dessert of the night. The attack was sweet but the finish quite spicy as the pepper kicked in, a complex trick that left our mouths buzzing.

She says:
Of course, this wasn’t the end of the meal. Following dessert, the waiter dropped off a sampling of cookies and truffles from the pastry chef. And even as we walked out of the restaurant, the attached bakery handed us a couple of small bags of cookies for the road.

He says:
And this is on top of all the palette cleansers delivered between each course, each one better than most entrées in any other restaurant. My favorite was the asparagus soup. It was cool and refreshing, the light notes of asparagus carefully distilled and accented with a touch of crème fraiche. Delicious.

We say:
Bacchanalia is the real deal. It rises above the culinary clutter of the Atlanta restaurant scene to provide a true fine-dining experience. Until further notice, it deserves the title “Best Restaurant in Atlanta.”




Update: December 2008

She says:
Second time around for Downtown Boy and me, and it’s just as fantabulous. The appetizers are probably Bacchanalia’s strongest suit… I was dying to order the Gulf crab fritter again (still on the menu!) but instead I chose the potato gnocchi. The dish was uber creamy and delicious, the gnocchi was tender without being gummy and adorned with a pile of delicate chanterelle mushrooms.

He says:
I too was tempted by the crab fritter, but eventually decided to go for the veal sweetbreads. Served atop a bed of lentils, the gaminess of the veal liver came through in robust, unctuous notes. The sweetbreads could have been softer though, as I suspected they were slightly overcooked.

She says:
Remembering Bacchanalia’s forte for fish, we split the Gulf Red Snapper entrée and the Nantucket Bay scallops. The small bay scallops were wonderful – mildly sweet, tender, the tops seared and salty enough to perfectly compliment the sweetness. Unlike other entrees, the sides weren’t much to speak of… a few slivers of carrots didn’t add much.

As for the snapper, I was very disappointed in this dish -- it was really dry and tasted cheap. I let Downtown Boy eat most of my portion.

He says:
I didn’t have a major problem with the snapper, but I agree with Uptown Girl that this dish was unremarkable. It was prepared simply to let the fish do to the talking, but it lacked any genuine flavor. Alas, it appears Bacchanalia doesn’t do everything perfectly!

For the cheese and contrast platter, I had a wonderful pairing of pears, Point Reyes blue cheese, and candied walnuts. The marvel of this dish is that I don’t care for any of these ingredients by themselves, but when taken together the resulting combination is a playful swirl of sweet, salty, creamy, and refreshing notes. Terrific!

She says:
I went with the dates and parmigiano-reggiano, which I loved on our previous visit.

As for dessert I chose the chipotle sweet potato fried pie, which was as interesting as it sounds. Little wonton-like pastries were filled with pureed sweet potato and served with a sprinkling of spicy chipotle. I’m not sold on sweet potato as a pie filling – it wasn’t sweet enough, for one – but the pastry was wonderful, with a lightness that reminded me of a sopapilla. Mexican chocolate ice cream and toasted meringue (aka marshmallow) sat on the side, which added some of the missing sweetness from the potato.

He says:
I wanted to see what Bacchanalia could do with a pistachio pear butter tart, and they didn’t disappoint. The overwhelming “butteriness” of the crust was this dessert’s main highlight, which served to accentuate the brown sugar crumbles and the soft, fresh pears within. It’s easily one of the best tarts I’ve ever had.

We say:
While the breathtaking magic that comes with eating at Bacchanalia for the first time has ebbed somewhat, this restaurant still operates at a level that few other Atlanta eateries can match. The city’s best restaurant in 2007, it retains that crown in 2008.




Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, GA 30318
http://www.starprovisions.com/

ZINGERMAN'S (Ann Arbor, MI)

He says:
I used to live two blocks away from Zingerman’s delicatessen, and long before ever stepping inside myself, I knew that I was in the presence of greatness. Maybe it was seeing the long lines of people standing in the freezing rain on football Saturdays, happily waiting for one of Zingerman’s famous sandwiches. Maybe it was because foodie friends in New York got wide-eyed whenever I mentioned I lived in Ann Arbor, MI and immediately asked if I’d eaten at Zingerman’s yet. Maybe it was because my roommate came home one day and gave me slice of chili cheddar bread, a crusty loaf so delicious and so sublime that I never looked at bread the same way again.

To say that Zingerman’s is the best delicatessen in the world doesn’t do justice to this Ann Arbor institution. Owners Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig love food, and for over 20 years they have crossed the globe seeking out the world’s best ingredients (cheeses, coffee beans, cured meats, olive oils, the list goes on ...), mastered the art of bread-baking and sandwich-making, and wedded this all with top-notch customer service. The result is nothing less than the gastronomic mecca of America.

She says:
The deli and coffee house are lodged in two red-brick buildings in the middle of the historic Kerrytown neighborhood. While Zingerman’s has grown to include a creamery, coffee roaster, and Southern diner (The Roadhouse), the owners have stuck to a forward-thinking business plan that ensures the quality of their food and service isn’t jeopardized in the name of expansion. You can, however, get their fabulous foods shipped anywhere in America through their mail order service.

Speaking of customer service … it’s one more area in which Zingerman’s excels. Their emphasis on over-the-top friendliness is legendary (heck, they even offer customer service training seminars!). It’s not unusual to have a long hungry line behind you as you order your sandwiches, but I guarantee the server will greet you with a bright smile, patiently help you maneuver the extensive menu, and even provide free samples to help you make your decision.

He says:
There are dozens of wonderful sandwiches on Zingerman’s menu, but if you asked for my favorite, I’d have to go with #48, Binny’s Brooklyn Reuben. To this day it remains the best sandwich I’ve ever had. Situated between two crusty slices of grilled pumpernickel are Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and slices of pastrami so fatty and molten that to taste it for the first time is a transformative moment. The balance of salty, sour, and creamy elements in this sandwich is unparalleled.

She says:
My favorite item is actually not a sandwich, but Stewart’s Farmer’s Hash. The mix of roasted sweet potatoes, peppers, spinach and shallots is SO delicious… The sweet potatoes and fried shallots add a hint of sweetness to the savory blend, which is all perfectly balanced with a dip of sour cream. Recently I’ve also tried Abra’s Nutty Yard Bread, a chicken salad set on pecan raisin bread. Again, the sweet/savory combo works well, and the nutty bread adds a fabulous texture. I think that’s what makes Zingerman’s sandwiches so unique (besides the top notch ingredients) – their ability to create combinations as innovative as they are tasty.

On my last visit to Zingerman’s I ordered Jay’s BBQ Chicken sandwich. The Amish chicken is smothered in Zingerman’s own BBQ sauce, topped with Vermont cheddar, and served on a bun. The rich, sweet BBQ sauce makes this new entry irresistible.

He says:
I usually order the deep-fried knish as well, the best off-the-menu item in any restaurant, ever. A regular potato knish is deep-fried so the interior turns piping hot and the usually doughy skin becomes golden brown and extra crunchy, perfect for dipping with the accompanying spicy mustard.

If I’m not too full, I head over to the coffee shop next door and order my second favorite off-the-menu item, an ice cream sandwich made from graham crackers and Zingerman’s Creamery gelato. The thick, crunchy grahams are made in-house and the gelato is among the best you’ll find outside of Italy.

She says:
Zingerman’s Next Door is my favorite place to linger. There you can sample their uber-rich gelato, browse a global selection of chocolates, admire their cakes (Hummingbird is the best!), sample their yummy pastries, or order some of the best coffee around.
I am absolutely in love with their mochas. The quality of the coffee contributes to their perfection, but even more important is the excellent chocolate they use. The end result is a sweet, rich, caffeinated treat with no hint of any icky aftertaste you often get with a less superior mocha.

We say:
We’ve barely begun describing all of the wonderful items available at Zingerman’s. We could go on and on, but really, this is a place you must experience for yourself!




Zingerman’s
422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104
http://www.zingermans.com/

ZOCALO (MIDTOWN)

She says:
Zocalo is our classic fall back restaurant in Midtown. This isn’t the most flattering thing to say about a restaurant, but this “creative Mexican” cantina honestly never disappoints. It always has solid food, moderate prices, and a friendly atmosphere that makes it a great place to entertain guests on a budget.

He says:
Like most Mexican restaurants, Zocalo offers a bottomless basket of warm tortilla chips and salsa as soon as you get your seat (and this may take a while on a Friday or Saturday night!) The guacamole is fresh-made and usually quite good, though the kitchen can be stingy with the serving size. However, the last time I visited the guacamole wasn’t particularly creamy since avocados are way out of season.

My favorite item on Zocalo’s menu is the Alambre, a giant grilled cheese tortilla stuffed with beef, bacon, peppers, and onion. It’s folded into a burrito, with a deliciously crisp exterior. It tastes as good as it sounds.

On our last visit I tried the Pollo Tres Zetas, chicken breast mixed with asadero cheese, poblano peppers, and mushrooms in a cream-based tomatillo sauce. I loved the sauce, the tomatillos adding a nice bite to the creaminess. I would have preferred the juiciness of dark meat instead of white meat in this dish, but overall it’s still messy and filling – and sometimes that’s just what you need.

She says:
I usually order the enchiladas, which Zocalo makes just how I like them. A zangy green chile sauce coats substantial corn tortillas stuffed with cheese or shredded chicken. I prefer the cheese enchiladas, as the chicken is a tad dry. Served on the side is a generous scoop of refried beans and Mexican rice.

The margaritas, mojitos, and sangria are all on par as well.

We say:
This creative cantina isn’t all that creative, but a meal at Zocalo’s is a sure bet.




Zocalo (Midtown)
187 10th Street, Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.zocalocreativemex.com/