BACCHANALIA

Original Post: May 2007

He says:
Ever since coming to Atlanta, Uptown Girl and I have been in search of a truly excellent restaurant. We’ve been to beautiful bistros with awful entrees and ugly diners with wonderful comfort food, but we still had not found that one place that could execute a creative, elegant dining experience from start to finish.

Enter Bacchanalia.

We’d heard about this restaurant from several sources, like Atlanta magazine and Citysearch, where it perennially tops the fine dining lists. But the label “Best restaurant in Atlanta” is thrown around far too loosely these days, and we’ve been burned one too many times to trust such sources. My parents were visiting Atlanta for the first time, however, so I figured we might as well give Bacchanalia a shot. I’m glad we did.

She says:
I will say up front that Bacchanalia is fabulous. The food (which we will get to in a moment) is clearly the star of this culinary show, with the setting and service merely there to highlight it. The restaurant is elegant and unimposing, with one window-filled wall providing a direct view into the bright and bustling kitchen. The wait staff, dressed in white tunics and black pants, appears purely utilitarian, almost stoic, and delivers impeccable service.

Of course, when we set out to Bacchanalia, we didn’t know quite what we were getting into. In other words, we weren’t expecting the $72/person prix fixe menu (sans wine). Fortunately, with a party of four ordering a different dish at each of the four courses, I can confidently say that we tasted much of what Bacchanalia has to offer.

Or should I say had to offer, considering that the menu changes frequently. Bacchanalia’s menu is comprised completely of seasonal, organic ingredients, much of which actually comes from the farm of chef duo Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison.

He says:
The quality of Bacchanalia’s ingredients came through right away in the appetizers. The pickled wild ramp risotto was creamy and indulgent, the Gulf white shrimp particularly savory. And the gulf crab fritter was marvelous, by far the finest crab cake I have ever tasted. The exterior is flash-fried so that it yields with a touch of the fork, and the shredded crab within is so fresh it actually reminded me of the open ocean.

She says:
I agree… the crab fritter was possibly the best dish of the entire meal. Unlike many other crab cakes, there is little filler to drown out the crab meat. It has a Thai pepper “essence” that makes it slightly sweet, slightly spicy, and completely delicious. My least favorite appetizer was the California snails… they seemed bland in comparison to the vivid flavors of the other appetizers.

For the main course, Downtown Boy’s mom and I avoided the red meat and shared the Florida black grouper and cured duck breast. The grouper was the best of all our entrees. It was cooked to perfection… the delicate white meat seared just enough to leave the outside slightly crispy. The accompanying artichokes, rainbow chard, and fennel were so tasty that I saved them for my last bite. The duck breast was also good, but again, the accompaniments (wild onions, morel mushrooms, and ramp broth) really brought the flavor. It goes to show that using local, seasonal ingredients makes a huge difference.

He says:
The pan-roasted lamb loin I ordered was tender but a bit too polite for my taste. Red meat should be unruly and bloody, and Bacchanalia’s pretty, slender medallions were not at the same level as that excellent black grouper. The same went for the prime tenderloin; it was tame when it should have been adventurous. Additionally, the roasted marrow served with it was a flavorless spoonful of melted fat, which left us all rather puzzled. All this said, both my father and I cleaned our plates.

She says:
While I didn’t taste the lamb or tenderloin, I think one of Bacchanalia’s strengths is the subtle complexities of its dishes. This does not translate into the “unruly and bloody” meat you might find at a steakhouse, but rather the quiet undertones of garlic and onion imparted to duck by ramp broth.

Next we moved to the “cheese and contrast” course. I wish this course were always a part of meals! The fresh goat’s milk cheese came with local beets in a variety of styles: roasted, macerated, raw, and most creatively, sorbet. Who knew that beets could be so interesting? The soft and mild Stracchino came with strawberries and balsamic vinegar, and could have been a dessert by itself. My favorite was the Parmigiano-Reggiano and Medjool date pairing. The dates were meaty and sweet, a perfect contrast to the salty parmesan.

He says:
And the Manchego and white anchovies were a phenomenal pairing, the smoothness of the former mitigating the intense saltiness of the latter. The cheese platters matched the appetizers in their execution and surpassed them for their innovation.

She says:
And then dessert. Ahhh… I had the warm Valrhona chocolate cake, which is pure chocolate decadence. Molten chocolate cake is a great dessert for restaurants to serve, as it seems impressively difficult and is deliciously rich. However, knowing how simple it is to make (and easily improved by using high quality chocolate) I wouldn’t give this one my top vote (although I will pick up their pairing of mint ice cream). In terms of pure deliciousness, the winner was the banana cream pie. It was neither heavy nor overly sweet, with a fairly dominant banana flavor. And the cornmeal crust was of perfect consistency… similar to the crumbliness of a graham-cracker crust, but less sweet and buttery. My least favorite was Downtown Boy’s dessert.

He says:
Hey, I really liked my orange creamsicle panna cotta! Perhaps you need to be a true popsicle fan to enjoy this novel take on a Good Humor favorite. The two-tiered egg custard had a cream bottom layer and a bright orange top… it really did taste like a creamsicle. The poached rhubarb on the side added some bite to this offbeat dessert. My father’s chipotle chocolate pecan tart was the most creative dessert of the night. The attack was sweet but the finish quite spicy as the pepper kicked in, a complex trick that left our mouths buzzing.

She says:
Of course, this wasn’t the end of the meal. Following dessert, the waiter dropped off a sampling of cookies and truffles from the pastry chef. And even as we walked out of the restaurant, the attached bakery handed us a couple of small bags of cookies for the road.

He says:
And this is on top of all the palette cleansers delivered between each course, each one better than most entrées in any other restaurant. My favorite was the asparagus soup. It was cool and refreshing, the light notes of asparagus carefully distilled and accented with a touch of crème fraiche. Delicious.

We say:
Bacchanalia is the real deal. It rises above the culinary clutter of the Atlanta restaurant scene to provide a true fine-dining experience. Until further notice, it deserves the title “Best Restaurant in Atlanta.”




Update: December 2008

She says:
Second time around for Downtown Boy and me, and it’s just as fantabulous. The appetizers are probably Bacchanalia’s strongest suit… I was dying to order the Gulf crab fritter again (still on the menu!) but instead I chose the potato gnocchi. The dish was uber creamy and delicious, the gnocchi was tender without being gummy and adorned with a pile of delicate chanterelle mushrooms.

He says:
I too was tempted by the crab fritter, but eventually decided to go for the veal sweetbreads. Served atop a bed of lentils, the gaminess of the veal liver came through in robust, unctuous notes. The sweetbreads could have been softer though, as I suspected they were slightly overcooked.

She says:
Remembering Bacchanalia’s forte for fish, we split the Gulf Red Snapper entrée and the Nantucket Bay scallops. The small bay scallops were wonderful – mildly sweet, tender, the tops seared and salty enough to perfectly compliment the sweetness. Unlike other entrees, the sides weren’t much to speak of… a few slivers of carrots didn’t add much.

As for the snapper, I was very disappointed in this dish -- it was really dry and tasted cheap. I let Downtown Boy eat most of my portion.

He says:
I didn’t have a major problem with the snapper, but I agree with Uptown Girl that this dish was unremarkable. It was prepared simply to let the fish do to the talking, but it lacked any genuine flavor. Alas, it appears Bacchanalia doesn’t do everything perfectly!

For the cheese and contrast platter, I had a wonderful pairing of pears, Point Reyes blue cheese, and candied walnuts. The marvel of this dish is that I don’t care for any of these ingredients by themselves, but when taken together the resulting combination is a playful swirl of sweet, salty, creamy, and refreshing notes. Terrific!

She says:
I went with the dates and parmigiano-reggiano, which I loved on our previous visit.

As for dessert I chose the chipotle sweet potato fried pie, which was as interesting as it sounds. Little wonton-like pastries were filled with pureed sweet potato and served with a sprinkling of spicy chipotle. I’m not sold on sweet potato as a pie filling – it wasn’t sweet enough, for one – but the pastry was wonderful, with a lightness that reminded me of a sopapilla. Mexican chocolate ice cream and toasted meringue (aka marshmallow) sat on the side, which added some of the missing sweetness from the potato.

He says:
I wanted to see what Bacchanalia could do with a pistachio pear butter tart, and they didn’t disappoint. The overwhelming “butteriness” of the crust was this dessert’s main highlight, which served to accentuate the brown sugar crumbles and the soft, fresh pears within. It’s easily one of the best tarts I’ve ever had.

We say:
While the breathtaking magic that comes with eating at Bacchanalia for the first time has ebbed somewhat, this restaurant still operates at a level that few other Atlanta eateries can match. The city’s best restaurant in 2007, it retains that crown in 2008.




Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, GA 30318
http://www.starprovisions.com/

ZINGERMAN'S (Ann Arbor, MI)

He says:
I used to live two blocks away from Zingerman’s delicatessen, and long before ever stepping inside myself, I knew that I was in the presence of greatness. Maybe it was seeing the long lines of people standing in the freezing rain on football Saturdays, happily waiting for one of Zingerman’s famous sandwiches. Maybe it was because foodie friends in New York got wide-eyed whenever I mentioned I lived in Ann Arbor, MI and immediately asked if I’d eaten at Zingerman’s yet. Maybe it was because my roommate came home one day and gave me slice of chili cheddar bread, a crusty loaf so delicious and so sublime that I never looked at bread the same way again.

To say that Zingerman’s is the best delicatessen in the world doesn’t do justice to this Ann Arbor institution. Owners Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig love food, and for over 20 years they have crossed the globe seeking out the world’s best ingredients (cheeses, coffee beans, cured meats, olive oils, the list goes on ...), mastered the art of bread-baking and sandwich-making, and wedded this all with top-notch customer service. The result is nothing less than the gastronomic mecca of America.

She says:
The deli and coffee house are lodged in two red-brick buildings in the middle of the historic Kerrytown neighborhood. While Zingerman’s has grown to include a creamery, coffee roaster, and Southern diner (The Roadhouse), the owners have stuck to a forward-thinking business plan that ensures the quality of their food and service isn’t jeopardized in the name of expansion. You can, however, get their fabulous foods shipped anywhere in America through their mail order service.

Speaking of customer service … it’s one more area in which Zingerman’s excels. Their emphasis on over-the-top friendliness is legendary (heck, they even offer customer service training seminars!). It’s not unusual to have a long hungry line behind you as you order your sandwiches, but I guarantee the server will greet you with a bright smile, patiently help you maneuver the extensive menu, and even provide free samples to help you make your decision.

He says:
There are dozens of wonderful sandwiches on Zingerman’s menu, but if you asked for my favorite, I’d have to go with #48, Binny’s Brooklyn Reuben. To this day it remains the best sandwich I’ve ever had. Situated between two crusty slices of grilled pumpernickel are Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and slices of pastrami so fatty and molten that to taste it for the first time is a transformative moment. The balance of salty, sour, and creamy elements in this sandwich is unparalleled.

She says:
My favorite item is actually not a sandwich, but Stewart’s Farmer’s Hash. The mix of roasted sweet potatoes, peppers, spinach and shallots is SO delicious… The sweet potatoes and fried shallots add a hint of sweetness to the savory blend, which is all perfectly balanced with a dip of sour cream. Recently I’ve also tried Abra’s Nutty Yard Bread, a chicken salad set on pecan raisin bread. Again, the sweet/savory combo works well, and the nutty bread adds a fabulous texture. I think that’s what makes Zingerman’s sandwiches so unique (besides the top notch ingredients) – their ability to create combinations as innovative as they are tasty.

On my last visit to Zingerman’s I ordered Jay’s BBQ Chicken sandwich. The Amish chicken is smothered in Zingerman’s own BBQ sauce, topped with Vermont cheddar, and served on a bun. The rich, sweet BBQ sauce makes this new entry irresistible.

He says:
I usually order the deep-fried knish as well, the best off-the-menu item in any restaurant, ever. A regular potato knish is deep-fried so the interior turns piping hot and the usually doughy skin becomes golden brown and extra crunchy, perfect for dipping with the accompanying spicy mustard.

If I’m not too full, I head over to the coffee shop next door and order my second favorite off-the-menu item, an ice cream sandwich made from graham crackers and Zingerman’s Creamery gelato. The thick, crunchy grahams are made in-house and the gelato is among the best you’ll find outside of Italy.

She says:
Zingerman’s Next Door is my favorite place to linger. There you can sample their uber-rich gelato, browse a global selection of chocolates, admire their cakes (Hummingbird is the best!), sample their yummy pastries, or order some of the best coffee around.
I am absolutely in love with their mochas. The quality of the coffee contributes to their perfection, but even more important is the excellent chocolate they use. The end result is a sweet, rich, caffeinated treat with no hint of any icky aftertaste you often get with a less superior mocha.

We say:
We’ve barely begun describing all of the wonderful items available at Zingerman’s. We could go on and on, but really, this is a place you must experience for yourself!




Zingerman’s
422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104
http://www.zingermans.com/

ZOCALO (MIDTOWN)

She says:
Zocalo is our classic fall back restaurant in Midtown. This isn’t the most flattering thing to say about a restaurant, but this “creative Mexican” cantina honestly never disappoints. It always has solid food, moderate prices, and a friendly atmosphere that makes it a great place to entertain guests on a budget.

He says:
Like most Mexican restaurants, Zocalo offers a bottomless basket of warm tortilla chips and salsa as soon as you get your seat (and this may take a while on a Friday or Saturday night!) The guacamole is fresh-made and usually quite good, though the kitchen can be stingy with the serving size. However, the last time I visited the guacamole wasn’t particularly creamy since avocados are way out of season.

My favorite item on Zocalo’s menu is the Alambre, a giant grilled cheese tortilla stuffed with beef, bacon, peppers, and onion. It’s folded into a burrito, with a deliciously crisp exterior. It tastes as good as it sounds.

On our last visit I tried the Pollo Tres Zetas, chicken breast mixed with asadero cheese, poblano peppers, and mushrooms in a cream-based tomatillo sauce. I loved the sauce, the tomatillos adding a nice bite to the creaminess. I would have preferred the juiciness of dark meat instead of white meat in this dish, but overall it’s still messy and filling – and sometimes that’s just what you need.

She says:
I usually order the enchiladas, which Zocalo makes just how I like them. A zangy green chile sauce coats substantial corn tortillas stuffed with cheese or shredded chicken. I prefer the cheese enchiladas, as the chicken is a tad dry. Served on the side is a generous scoop of refried beans and Mexican rice.

The margaritas, mojitos, and sangria are all on par as well.

We say:
This creative cantina isn’t all that creative, but a meal at Zocalo’s is a sure bet.




Zocalo (Midtown)
187 10th Street, Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.zocalocreativemex.com/

GEORGE'S BAR & RESTAURANT

He says:
When talk of the best burger in Atlanta pops up, the Vortex and the Earl are frequently mentioned. Hence when someone recently named George’s in Virginia Highlands as the best around, I raised an eyebrow. Was it true? Could the tastiest burger in a city renowned for its burgers be located less than a mile away from our house?

As it turns out, not so much.

The chili cheeseburger I ordered was messy and yummy alright, but it fails to reach the sublime heights of its burger brethren. The beef patty wasn’t very juicy or fatty. The chili tasted generic. This is not to say the burger isn’t good, because it is. In fact, it’s very good. It’s simply not great.

I did enjoy their mozzarella sticks, which are of the supermarket freezer variety I love so much.

She says:
Unfortunately, my black bean burger wasn’t up to snuff. Like most black bean burgers it was pretty mushy, and although the waitress warned me it was spicy, it was really bland. One of our friends also tried the veggie burger and said that it was mushy too.

Besides the disappointing veggie options, George’s other fatal flaw is that they don’t serve milkshakes, which is a big disappointment at a burger joint. That said, their onion rings were awesome… large, fat rings coated in just the right amount of crisp batter.

We say:
George’s might stand out in a city with a less awesome burger scene, but in Atlanta it’s just a typical burger joint.

He says:



She says:



George’s Bar and Restaurant
1041 N. Highland Ave. NE
Atlanta, GA 30306
http://georgesbarandrestaurant.com/

CAKES & ALE

He says:
At Cakes & Ale, simplicity rules. It starts with the décor – solid white walls lined with mirrors and illustrations drawn from culinary textbooks. REM’s Automatic for the People softly plays in the background. The waiters wear black. Specials are written on a chalkboard like in an English pub. Nothing fancy. Nothing outrageous. If Cakes & Ale wants your attention, they want the food to do the talking.

She says:
And boy did it speak to me! Our enthusiastic waiter made every item on the menu sound amazing (or “really cool” in his words), so it was a tough choice. I ended up selecting the pompano (a type of fish, related to mackerel), and a helluva fish it was. It was cooked “en papillote,” or baked in a pouch, which ensured the delicate fish stayed moist and tender. Thinly sliced onions and peppers were draped on top, adding a touch of piquancy, but overall the fresh flavor of the fish stood on its own. It came with a side of potato-butternut squash puree. The slight sweetness of the squash combined with a generous amount of butter made this side irresistible. And mixed with a bite of the fish… absolute perfection! This is one of the best entrees I have eaten in Atlanta.

He says:
Cakes & Ale’s chicken pot pie is a glorious example of restraint. Some eateries, like The Lady & Sons, feel the need to radically alter this classic comfort food. But why mess with perfection? Cakes & Ale’s version is a simple pie baked in a ceramic dish that bests Swanson’s TV dinner classic at every turn with fresher ingredients and superior taste. The crust is flaky and buttery. Copious chunks of plump chicken breast swim with corn and beans in a thick, golden broth. It may look rather plain, but it’s the best chicken pot pie I’ve ever had.

She says:
For dessert we shared the pomegranate flan, which consisted of a layer of flan topped by a thick layer of pomegranate jelly and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. The flavor was wonderful, not too sweet with the tangy, berry-like flavor of the pomegranate shining through. I didn’t particularly like the texture, though; the creaminess of the flan was overwhelmed by the heaviness of the jelly.

He says:
So picky! I loved the flan exactly the way it was.

We say:
This just might be our favorite small restaurant in town.




Cakes & Ale Restaurant
254 W. Ponce de Leon Avenue, Decatur, GA 30030
http://www.cakesandalerestaurant.com/

MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR

He says:
After reading the approbation heaped upon chef David Chang in the food pages of the New York Times and Esquire over the past year, Uptown Girl and I felt we had to see what all the fuss was about. In a few short years, Chang has opened three Momofuku restaurants in Manhattan, with each one serving modern twists on everyday Asian classics. Momofuku Ssam tackles primarily street food and is famous for its banh mi, a sandwich that can be found in food stalls all across Vietnam.

My take on it? Delicious. I’ve never had banh mi before, but Ssam’s version is terrific any way you look at it. Situated between the firm halves of a Vietnamese baguette, a thin slice of ham, chicken terrine, cucumber, pickled carrots, and minced jalepeno peppers come together for a simple, yet satisfying meal. Slightly creamy, spicy, and salty, it packs a punch without weighing you down. And the price is right too.

She says:
I had a really hard time finding something non-mammalian on the menu to eat. I eventually settled on the Korean staple bibimbop, a huge bowl of rice topped with heaps of pickled mushrooms and cucumber, tofu, edamame, and a lightly fried (aka nearly raw) egg. It was incredibly filling, but nothing special aside from the vegetables. They weren’t overly pickled, just enough to tantalize the tongue with a slight sourness. The side of brussel sprouts that came with Downtown Boy’s dish, mixed with mint and scallions in a fish sauce vinagrette, was surprisingly delicious.

He says:
Anytime you find something new and cheap in NYC, it’s a cause for celebration.



She says:
Although Momofuku has a way with veggies, this is still not a friendly place for vegetarians.



Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 2nd Avenue, New York, NY 10003
www.momofuku.com

ALON'S

She says:
Ever since we discovered Alon’s, this fabulous bakery has been one of our mainstays in Atlanta. It’s the closest thing to Zingerman’s (our all-time favorite deli in Ann Arbor, MI) this town has to offer, and fortunately is much, much nearer to our house. From gourmet paninis to high-quality coffee and scrumptious baked goods, Alon’s has just about everything wonderful in life.

As you enter the shop from the left, you immediately hit the bakery counter. Here you can load up on French bread, oh-so-moist muffins (I recommend the carrot-apple variety), scones (the cinnamon ginger is terrific, with bits of crystallized ginger mixed in), croissants (I love the chocolate ones), and cookies.

About those cookies… Downtown Boy can attest to my near-psychotic obsession with their double-chocolate chunk cookies. Ultra chocolatey and moist, they are perfection in cookie form.

He says:
Uptown Girl said it all. Alon’s bakery is nothing short of fabulous. I have an unhealthy craving for croissants, and wherever I travel I tend to try one out. I’ve had stale croissants in Cannes and delicious ones in New Hampshire. I can assure you that Alon’s serves some of the best. They have a flawless blend of crispness at the exterior and a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth interior. I get hungry just thinking about them.

And don’t be fooled by Uptown Girl’s advocacy for the double-chocolate cookies. They are indeed awesome, but the true standouts on the cookie rack are the chocolate chunk pecan cookies. A rare balance of sweetness, saltiness, and chewiness, they are the best cookies you can buy in Atlanta.

She says:
Next you come to the dessert counter, a case filled with fancy French desserts, a beautiful site. I’ve sampled several, most of which are rich and delicious and somehow involve chocolate. The also have some great non-chocolate options, like fruit tarts and tiramisu. These make for great contributions to dinner parties, or you can get an entire cake for a special occasion.

Am I beginning to sound like an infomercial?

The dessert counter is also where you order coffee. Alon’s has the best mocha in town, hands down.

He says:
Across from the dessert counter is a small cheese stand where we regularly steal samples from … Yum!

Moving forward you reach to my favorite part of Alon’s, the sandwich counter. The specialty paninis on the display racks come on a firm ciabatta mini loaf and are incredible in their own way, though the best is the one with arugula, gruyere, and olive tapenade. I order it almost every time I come in.

On rare occasions I may indulge myself and order the garlic-roasted lamb sandwich. Thick, tender chunks of roasted lamb are served with garlic, rosemary, and a zingy red onion marmalade between French bread to a sublime effect.

She says:
And finally, you reach the deli. After hitting up the bakery and sandwich counter, we’re never quite hungry enough to order from the deli, but everything in it looks amazing… And they have a little bit of everything, from fresh lump crab cakes to sun-dried pasta salad to Baba Ghanoush.

We say:
Treat yourself to a pistachio croissant or double-chocolate cookie or a hot Panini at Alon’s and you will leave a happy customer. We promise.




Alon’s
1394 N. Highland Ave, Atlanta, GA 30306
http://www.alons.com/

TROIS

She says:
Our first and only visit to Trois was back in August, during Midtown Restaurant Week. We’ve been meaning to go back to do a full fledged review, but alas, it hardly seems right to splurge on fine French food when the economy is in such dire straits. So this will have to do for now.

He says:
Like its sister restaurants One Midtown Kitchen and Two Urban Licks, much effort has gone into Trois’s interior design. However, in contrast to its older siblings’ love affair with thumping music, dim lighting, and ghetto fabulous décor, Trois takes a minimalist approach far more appropriate for a fine dining establishment. The main room is large and airy, with tall chiffon curtains that keep the room alive with light. And while the volume never dropped below 11 at Two, Trois actually seems to try to encourage conversation. The Concentrics group appears to be taking a new tact with this restaurant, which is to let the food – and not the setting – take center stage.

The prix fixe menu started with a beef hanger skewer that came with a salad of shredded green mango and papaya. The beef was delicious, juicy with slight notes of fennel.

She says:
The second appetizer was an upgrade of your typical Caprese salad. Heirloom tomatoes, which had a ton of flavor, were topped with basil, goat cheese, and aged balsamic vinegar. I loved the substitution of goat cheese for the usual mozzarella..

The star of the night was the Sole Parisian. The fish was amazing! Perfectly prepared, it had a slight crispness on the exterior and a delicate interior. Capers provided a nice contrast to the buttery flavor of the fish, although really, the fish could easily have stood on its own.

He says:
The roasted duck entrée was solid, though it suffered in comparison with the sole. The flesh was moist though it could have been fattier. The mini egg rolls stuffed with bok choy and duck confit were interesting, but they didn’t add much contrast to the dish.

She says:
Dessert was warm chocolate soufflé cake. Trois’ version is exactly what you expect and hope for from this popular dish … not overly sweet, with a delicious oozing interior and vanilla ice cream on the side. As a bonus, the cake was drizzled with a raspberry sauce, the tart fruitiness rounding out the cake’s overall richness.

Based on my experience at Restaurant Week...

He says:
While Trois hit on all cylinders for our abbreviated meal, it’s still a step behind Bacchanalia in my book. Nevertheless, that is quite an accomplishment!





Trois
1180 Peachtree Street, Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.trois3.com/home.html

DESI SPICE

She says:
We should have known that it would be too good to be true to have a fantastic Indian restaurant next door to the nearby Midtown Art Cinema. We’ve walked past Desi Spice dozens of times on the way to the movies without even noticing it, but we recently stopped by with my brother and his wife one night before a show. After all, you never know when there might be a hidden gem right in your own backyard. As it turns out, though, it couldn’t have been much worse.

He says:
Dinner got off to a shaky start when I ordered a mango lassi that was so sickeningly sweet that I couldn’t finish it. It was like drinking honey.

Our group split the vegetarian sampler for four, which includes samosas, fried onions, dal, saag paneer, two types of vegetable curry, naan, and rice. The samosas were solid though they left a bit to be desired. The outer pastry was nice and thick, but the potato and peas within didn’t stand out in any way.

The rest of the entrees in the sampler suffered from a fatal flaw – the complete absence of any spice. This is all the more peculiar since “spice” is in the name of the restaurant. It seems that Desi has so thoroughly Americanized its dishes that this “Indian” cuisine no longer tastes Indian. In fact, it doesn’t taste like anything at all.

She says:
Agreed. The dal was the only edible dish, probably because it’s the only dish you wouldn’t expect to be spicy. The other dishes – a vegetable curry, sag paneer, and some other forgettable dish with veggies – were completely bland. Coupled with the fact that most of the veggies (and the paneer) were overcooked, this meal could have been repackaged and sold as baby food.

As we were leaving, my sister-in-law took another look at the menu. At the bottom it read “If you like spice, please tell your waiter.” Wait a second… Shouldn’t it be the other way around? Isn’t Indian food supposed to have some kick?

We say:
Desi “Spice” is unfortunately lacking.




Desi Spice
931 Monroe Dr NE, Atlanta, GA 30308
http://www.desispiceatl.com/

HIGHLAND BAKERY

She says:
Atlanta’s brunch scene never ceases to impress us. Our list of favorite brunch spots got a little longer this weekend after dining at Highland Bakery. Located in a newly developed strip on North Highland, the bakery occupies a bright, generous space decorated with funky local art. Highland Bakery’s capacity is a real perk… unlike most of our brunch experiences we didn’t have to wait for a seat, despite the steady stream of customers arriving.

He says:
A glass of fresh squeezed OJ and an endless cup of joe kicked off our recent Sunday brunch. For my main entrée, I was tempted by several selections on the expansive menu (ricotta pancakes with blueberry compote anyone?) before eventually settling for the Cowboy Benedict. A clever riff on eggs benedict, this dish features two perfectly poached eggs over quesadillas served with black beans and corn relish. The spiciness of the corn – amped up with just the right amount of chili pepper – disrupted the hollandaise sauce with pleasing results. I’d say it was one of the best brunch specials I’ve had in quite some time.

She says:
The sweet potato pancakes were a perfect fall treat. I was expecting sweet potato to make for a very dense cake, but in fact the cakes were light and fluffy. A slathering of carmelized brown sugar syrup added the necessary sweetness, and a sprinkling of toasted pecans provided a delicious textural contrast.

Our dining partner – a vegan – had several options to choose from and enjoyed the tofu scramble. The potatoes on the side were excellent, browned to a beautiful crisp and well-seasoned.

We say:
This place definitely gives the Flying Biscuit and Sweet Melissa’s a run for its money! For an affordable, delicious breakfast (and fresh cupcakes in the display case to boot) head to Highland Bakery.




Highland Bakery
655 Highland Avenue, #10, Atlanta, Georgia 30312
http://www.highlandbakery.com/

LITTLE FIVE POINTS PIZZA

He says:
Little 5 Points Pizza at the corner of Euclid & Moreland serves a subpar New York slice that is too heavy on the cheese and oil. I normally wouldn’t write about such an unremarkable pizza, but my recent experience was so rotten that it warrants mention.

I stepped in on a lazy Saturday afternoon to pick up two cheese slices. I was told my order would be ready in a few minutes. Five minutes go by. Ten minutes go by. I asked the guy behind the counter if my food is ready, and he says, “Soon.” Twenty minutes go by. Thirty minutes go by. By this time I’ve read through an entire issue of Creative Loafing. A group of teenagers in the next booth have gotten their food, eaten it, refilled and drank their sodas, and left since I entered the store. I ask again if my food is ready. “Here it is,” the guy says, sliding it from the oven onto a paper plate. He explains they are very busy.

I’m sorry. This is a pizzeria. You only serve one thing – pizza. How difficult is it to heat up two slices? I don’t normally rate restaurants based on their service, but for Little Five Points Pizza, I shall make an exception.



Little Five Points Pizza
22 Seminole Ave NE, Atlanta, GA
(404) 525-2530

YIPIN CHINESE CUISINE

He says:
I had the fortune of trying many obscure and excellent foods while quite young, so it’s rare for me these days to come across a dish that is so radically new and startlingly good that I am blown away. But such a thing happened to me at Yipin Chinese Cuisine, a small, unassuming shop at the edge of Chinatown in Flushing, Queens.

By most accounts, the Chinese cuisine in Flushing is the most authentic in the city. Far from the tourist-choked streets of Mott & Canal in lower Manhattan, the restaurateurs of Flushing are Chinese folk cooking for Chinese folk. Here, Mandarin is the standard language, and with few signs or menus in English, navigating the food scene can be a daunting challenge. Fortunately the New York Times recently published an eater’s guide to Flushing, and armed with this knowledge Uptown Girl and I took the number 7 train into the heart of Queens.

She says:
Having never been to China, I imagine it's somewhat similar to Flushing – crowded. As soon as we exited the subway station, we were pushing our way through crowds and being jostled in turn as we tried to locate the food stalls the article had identified as worthy. Admittedly, this wasn’t a very original idea… we saw several other couples carrying the same newspaper article and looking completely lost. One of these couples even had the audacity to ask to see our article, as they had left theirs at home!

We made several stops, sampling delicious shrimp pancakes, fried wontons, and the best grilled chicken I’ve ever had. Our last stop was Yipin, a spare little restaurant with tile floors and four small tables where strangers sat together, huddled over large noodle bowls. The cold sesame noodles we requested took forever to make, but how could we be irritated at the old lady who kindly took our order or the single cook busily boiling and straining noodles behind the counter?

He says:
I regret never having cold sesame noodles before since I have no basis for comparing Yipin’s to other restaurants. It’s a moot point, though, since this dish is like nothing else I’ve ever had. The noodles are thick with the perfect blend of chewiness and give. They sit over a rich broth of ground sesame paste, chili paste, soy sauce, and peanut oil served at room temperature, with everything topped with shredded cucumber. The result is spectacular. The sesame paste gives the dish its distinctive flavor and creaminess; the chili paste provides a dose of heat strong enough to take you aback but not enough to keep you away; the shredded cucumber provides a cool, crisp contrast. Everything about this dish was completely new to me, but I also recognize genius when I see it.

She says:
Although it wasn’t love at first taste for me as it was for Downtown Boy, I do agree that the noodles were quite different than anything I’d had before. Personally, my mouth was burning uncomfortably after several bites, but I did enjoy the density of the noodles.

He says:
I agree with the New York Times – these are indeed “paradigm-changing noodles.”



She says:
As far as noodles go, these just aren’t my favorite.



Yipin Chinese Cuisine
40-04 Union Street, Queens, NY 11354
718-939-3489

BAY LEAVES

She says:

I don’t think the future is bright for Bay Leaves. We visited on a Thursday evening with a Creative Loafing coupon in hand and ended up being the only ones there during our entire meal. This doesn’t bode well for the Little Five eatery, which only opened in May. I can’t say that I will feel any great loss if the restaurant ends up closing, but there may be some disappointed vegetarians out there, if only because their options are few and far between in this meat-loving town.

Bay Leaves’ menu focuses largely on vegetarian items and meat that comes from local, organic animals. (There’s also quite a few fish choices, but I forgot to see if they were sustainable options.) As for the cuisine itself… I’m not sure what’s going on. The menu is supposedly “international fusion” but seems to be primarily a mélange of Thai and American – an odd combination, particularly in a city so laden with good Thai food. Downtown Boy and I agree that a chef should pick one cuisine and do it well, rather than try to please the masses with multiple cuisines.

Our meal started off well, with the Bay Leaves’ Volcano appetizer, which consisted of pita bread topped with sautéed mushrooms, basil, spinach, tomatoes, and fake meat. A drizzle of creamy, chipotle dressing brought it all together. It’s not rocket-science but it tasted good.

He says:
The fish sandwich I ordered was one of the sadder things I’ve seen in Atlanta. The grilled tilapia was passable, but what happened to the “pesto dressing” the menu mentioned? My sandwich only came with lettuce and tomatoes. And where was the “fresh ciabatta bread”? The tiny fillet of tilapia came between 2 slices of supermarket brown bread – and not the nice Pepperidge Farm 7-Grain bread, but the cheap, Home Pride 99-cent stuff.

Seriously, if I want to eat a sandwich like this I’d rather stay home and throw a can of sardines on Wonder Bread. The dish’s saving grace was the sweet potato fries, which were nice and crunchy.

She says:
On our very sweet waitress’s recommendation, I got the ginger chicken. I was eager to back Bay Leaves’ support of all-natural, wholesome, happy chickens, but the chunks of chicken didn’t taste very happy. In fact, they were a little dry. The chicken had been sautéed in soy sauce with bell peppers and LOTS of shredded ginger. The ginger was everywhere and could have used a lot more dicing. Overall, the dish was overwhelmingly gingery and easily something I could make at home.

He says:
For dessert we tried the fried ice cream, two large scoops of vanilla with a thick, doughy crust. The fried exterior was far thicker than I’ve seen in other restaurants, but I didn’t mind since deep-fried anything tends to be A-OK in my book.

She says:
I thought it was terrible. The fried dough on the outside was too thick and tasted slightly of rancid oil.

We say:
While we support Bay Leaves’ use of natural ingredients, we definitely do not support their mediocre cooking.





Bay Leaves
1138 Euclid Avenue, Atlanta GA 30307
http://www.rewardsnetwork.com/details.htm?merchantId=91891

SUGAR SWEET SUNSHINE

He says:
Let the cupcake wars begin! Magnolia threw down the gauntlet 12 years ago with its delicious $2 cupcakes, setting off a craze that has swept across the country and even infiltrated Atlanta in recent years. Few of Magnolia’s imitators have come close to the original, though. Too often their cupcakes are dry or airy, and the icing just not distinctive enough to justify their high prices.

But with Sugar Sweet Sunshine, we have a contender.

Unlike Magnolia, there is no half-hour line that wraps around the block. We walked right into SSS on a Monday afternoon and ordered our cupcakes and coffee, which is a good thing. Also unlike Magnolia, there are more than three flavors of cupcake. Actually, there are more like ten, and they look amazing. What to choose? The Sunshine, a yellow cupcake with vanilla buttercream? Or the Carrot Cake with cream cheese frosting? Perhaps the Lemon Yummy, a lemon cake with lemon buttercream? It’s hard to decide because they all look and smell delicious.

From the first bite, it’s clear that SSS’s frosting is lighter than Magnolia’s and the cake less dense. I actually prefer this to the “heaviness” that accompanies Magnolia’s cupcakes. However, the flavored cupcakes are where Sugar Sweet Sunshine really takes flight. The pistachio cupcake was wonderful, the cake simultaneously rich yet not too sweet, with a pistachio current running through every bite. The vanilla frosting was sprinkled with crushed pistachio nuts for enhanced texture and flavor. Awesome. The strawberry cupcake was nearly as good, with fresh strawberry slices baked right into the moist cake.

She says:
Ok, step back. I may be incredibly biased, but the only valid way to assess a cupcake shop is through its chocolate cupcakes, or – to be generous – at the very least its chocolate-frosted vanilla cupcakes. Because what is a cupcake if it does not contain chocolate?

And so I sampled the Ooey Gooey, a chocolate cupcake with chocolate-almond buttercream frosting. My first complaint – the cupcake itself. It was barely chocolate. I don’t even think something that subtle should be allowed to call itself chocolate. Not to mention that the cake was lighter and drier than cake should be. And then there was the frosting, which was way more almond-y than chocolaty, and for a buttercream, it was certainly lacking in richness. Overall, there was nothing ooey or gooey about this “cupcake.”

After the disappointment of my cupcake, I did try a bite of Downtown Boy’s strawberry and pistachio cupcakes to see what he was raving about. My impression? Muffins. That’s right, these imposter cupcakes taste exactly like what they should be – muffins. Last time I checked, a muffin is not a cupcake.

He says:
For their range and expertise in cupcake flavors, I’m going to give the nod to Sugar Sweet Sunshine in this latest round of the cupcake wars.




She says:
Magnolia may only have 3 flavors, but they do cupcakes right – rich, moist, and chocolaty. Unlike Sugar Sweet Sunshine, where any true cupcake essence has been lost in the quest to diversify.




Sugar Sweet Sunshine
126 Rivington Street, New York, NY 10002
http://www.sugarsweetsunshine.com/