LUPE TAQUERIA

He says:
It was a sad day in Atlanta when the U Restaurants Group closed Cuerno earlier this year. It was a vibrant Spanish restaurant with delicious tapas and a warm, handsome interior. In fact, it might have been the best eatery in Midtown. Unfortunately it didn’t survive the economic downturn. U Restaurants recently opened Lupe in its place, and while it’s not as good as Cuerno, I can see it being more successful. Why? It’s pretty simple, really. Lupe is much cheaper. And it serves tacos. In times like these, that’s as sure a bet as you can ask for.

She says:
One thing that hasn’t changed is that it’s still a gorgeous restaurant. Sadly, Cuerno’s remarkable life-size bull sculpture, which was pieced together from colorful scraps of metal, has been removed. But otherwise, the small interior is the same: dimly lit, with smooth lines and rich dark colors. A surfeit of candles gives the place a romantic feel. Aside from the considerable noise level, Lupe is a great date spot.

A testament to this is their menu for two. For $25, you get an order of queso dip, 6 tacos (3 per person), and dessert. You might be able to find cheaper tacos at Tacqueria del Sol, but you’re not going to get this kind of ambiance or quality of food. Poblano peppers give the queso a bit of a kick, and the dip comes with freshly made (and still warm!) tortilla chips. The tacos also come wrapped in homemade corn tortillas. Of the three I tried – chicken, portabella mushroom, and shrimp – my favorite was the mushroom, which also included corn, poblano peppers, and cotija cheese. The flavors of all three tacos were far more complex than what you usually find at a taqueria, and the ingredients were noticeably fresh.

He says:
Uptown Girl had better luck with her choices. Of my three tacos, the lengua was the most disappointing; a well-prepared beef tongue should have a soft, silky texture, and Lupe’s definitely did not. The barbacoa de chivo taco was only slightly better. I expected the slow-braised goat meat to fall in the tender, slide-off-the-bone category, and once again it was tougher than it should have been. It also tasted more like bland beef than goat. The slow-cooked pork of the cochinita pivil was the best by default. Sadly the tomatillo salsa and jalapenos on all three of these tacos masked the meats’ flavors instead of heightening them. In the future I need to pay more attention to the sauces since they tend to dominate the platters.

She says:
The only disappointing thing for me was the dessert, an orange soda float, which I felt was a total throwaway. But for just $25 for a filling dinner for two, I wasn’t complaining.

We say:
Judging from the lively crowds since its opening, Lupe has a better chance at survival than Cuerno ever did. Considering that it’s cheap, close to our house, and serves above average tacos, we’ll be back.




Lupe Taqueria
905 Juniper, Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.sottosottorestaurant.com/

DYNAMIC DISH

He says:
Oh, Dynamic Dish, I’d like to love you. I really would. You’ve gotten so much great press in the local papers and magazines. Everyone says you’re the best vegetarian restaurant in town. Your menu changes daily based on what’s in season. You use fresh, local, organic ingredients. Your décor is bright and airy, like a farmhouse in the Midwest. You have a charming, no-frills website. We should be completely in love right now.

But, you know, it’s just not working out.

Maybe it’s your wacky schedule. We tried to visit you multiple times in the past but have been cruelly turned away. After all, you’re only open for dinner three nights a week. And you know I don’t work close enough to Edgewood Avenue to see you for lunch. The long distance thing is difficult.

Maybe it’s your service. When we last visited you, there were only eight other people in the restaurant. But it took forever to get our water glasses filled. Questions about the tea list went unanswered. Check-ins were infrequent. I really wish you would pay more attention to me.

Maybe it’s the menu. Everything looks delicious. It really does. We were excited for tasty vegetarian dishes. It’s so hard to find the good ones in Atlanta. Alas, it was not meant to be…

She says:
Things started out pretty well... When that bowl of ginger pumpkin soup (which the server happily split for us) came out, I felt that fluttering in my stomach that only comes with a new crush. What a splendid, creamy soup! The zing of the ginger and the crunch of the toasted pepita garnish had me grinning like a fool! I admit, my interest was piqued.

Then I tried the Flammkuchen. It sounded rustic and hardy, but what came out was a delicate flat bread pizza covered with carmelized onions, fennel, and a smattering of cheddar. It was a nice dish, but I have to admit I was a little bored.

Which is nothing compared to the way our vegan friend was feeling, being forced to order salad. Salad!! That’s the ultimate insult, the fallback dish when no other options are available. The tempeh burger with vegan eggplant remoulade seemed like a possibility, but the burger was made with egg. Why? Why even bother offering a vegan remoulade when a vegan can’t eat the burger? It’s like false advertising. And then, like a slap in the face, the only vegan dessert – a sweet little chocolate cupcake just begging to make our friend a happy man – disappeared before we finished our dinner.

He says:
For better or worse, I kept hanging around. My trout was wonderful – fresh and flaky with a clear, smoky flavor. It paired wondrously with the horseradish cream and Georgia watercress. The earthiness of the potato salad gave the dish some needed heft. Its dishes like this that made me think we had a future.

But then our other, non-vegan friend had the tempeh burger. It was fine, but unfortunately it sat on a desiccated bun.

Oh, dear. You do so much so well and yet get the little things wrong. Maybe we can try this again in a few years, when you’ve had some time mature. I hope we can still be friends.

We say:
It’s not you, it’s us. Well, maybe it’s a little bit you.




Dynamic Dish
427 Edgewood Avenue, Atlanta, GA 30312
http://www.dynamicdish.net/

KYMA

He says:
Everything about Kyma is boring and white. Take the décor of this Buckhead dining mainstay. Traditional white linens cover every table of the dining room without offering an ounce of personality. Or take its well-heeled patrons. On a recent Friday night, the entire restaurant was filled wall to wall with old white people. It’s hard to find such a homogeneous crowd in a multicultural city like Atlanta, but hey, there you go! Finally, take my $30 entrée of dorado. Lightly sautéed in butter and garnished with a few capers, this soggy white fish is average-tasting at best. At worst, it’s an awful value.

She says:
That’s not the only mediocre thing at Kyma. For a Greek eatery that specializes in seafood, there is a surprisingly lack of variety on the menu in terms of preparation – all filets come lightly buttered with capers. Apparently you are supposed to glean knowledge from descriptions like “clean” and “moist” to choose your fish dish. We went the more challenging route and chose our dishes based on the sustainability of the fish, using our handy sustainable seafood pocket guides. This narrowed our options down to a measly two choices.

The barramundi does indeed have a “clean mild flavor” and is “flaky” compared to the slight chewiness of Downtown Boy’s dorado. So it’s a nice, fresh-tasting, boring white fish. For $30 you’d think they would add a serving of saffron rice, or roasted potatoes, or something to the plate (something besides the slop of indecipherable wilted greens, that is).

If I went back to Kyma, I’d probably focus on the appetizers, as they fare much better. The wood-grilled octopus is extremely tender and tasty, and the spanakopita has a fantastic flaky crust, though the interior is too salty.

He says:
Kyma handles its red meat decently well. Their lamb shank is plenty big, and the slow-braised meat slides right off the bone. The wood-grilled lamb chops have a decent gaminess, but the preparation is inconsistent. One of the chops I tried was cooked medium while the one right next to it was rare.

As for Kyma’s dessert list, well, you guessed it … it’s boring.

We say:
Kyma is the worst kind of bore – an expensive one.



Kyma
3085 Piedmont Rd NE, Atlanta, GA 30305
http://www.buckheadrestaurants.com/index2.html

FLIP BURGER BOUTIQUE

He says:
I didn’t think it could live up to the hype. I really didn’t. Soon after Richard Blais’s fabled run on Top Chef, the buzz surrounding his latest Atlanta project, Flip, reached hysterical proportions. When it finally opened in December of ‘08, the crowds were ready, and they were crazy. One of my coworkers had to drive over three times before she could even get a seat. Another stood in the parking lot for over 2 hours to get inside. And all this for a “glamburger”? Speaking from personal experience, gourmet hamburgers don’t usually hold a candle to greasy, old-school ones. They are too refined when they should be primal, too complex when they should be bold. Do I really want olive tapenade on my lamburger when a slice of bacon on a Five Guys Burger will do the trick?

As it turns out, yes, I do.

Flip is the real deal … a fun, trendy, and most important, delicious place to eat. It starts with the all white decor – white booths, white tables, white floors, white walls. Hell, even the TVs behind the bar are framed in white. Right off the bat, you know this place is not your usual burger bar. This place is different. And not in a zany, self-indulgent manner that afflicts restaurants like Two Urban Licks. It’s a good type of difference, one that suggests post-modernity, the deconstruction of the hamburger, and its reassembly at the hands of a sous vide ninja. Belying this stark minimalism though, Flip throbs with energy. Lively chatter bounces from the walls. Music videos blare from the TVs. The open kitchen bustles. This is a seriously fun place to eat.

She says:
Our adventure began with the liquid nitrogen milkshakes. The wacky flavors, ranging from krispy kreme to fois gras, reflect chef Blais’s imaginative bent on food. We appreciated his work early on at Element, where items like liquid nitrogen margaritas and carbonized octopus were the norm. I was definitely sad to see Element go. Happily, with Flip, Blais is still pushing the boundaries of fine dining.

The spicy chocolate mole milkshake is a rich and satisfying treat, the quality of the chocolate coming through with every slurp. The mole leaves the subtlest tickle in the back of your throat. As chocolate milkshakes go, it’s about as good as it gets. The nutella and burnt marshmallow milkshake is on another level. The sweet hazelnut chocolate ice cream is outstanding, particularly when coupled with the taste of a perfectly roasted marshmallow. (You know what I’m talking about… when the exterior is just barely burnt while the inside is soft and gooey?) A whole pile of torched marshmallows sit atop the shake like Marie Antoinette’s wig.

He says:
Indeed, the milkshakes began to undermine my tenet that simplicity rules in burger joints. My belief was fully shaken when I bit into the lamburger. So often lamb is overcooked and loses its flavor. Not this burger. Grilled medium-rare, the “lambiness” comes through loud and clear. Its fatty juices are balanced by the minced olive relish and fresh mint, which is in turn cut by the sweet raisin ketchup spread over the buttered brioche bun. Rich, salty, and sweet in perfect proportion, this is the finest glamburger I’ve ever had. It’s complex all right, and it works beautifully.

By the time I got to the fries with two dipping sauces, I was converted. Why dip such terrific spuds in plain old ketchup? Good God, man! Such simplicity is blasphemy! Instead, pair those golden brown fries with the smoky mayo for one of the best side dishes in Atlanta.

She says:
The tempura fried butternut squash are equally amazing. Like the fries, the squash is beautifully fried to get that satisfying crunch, plus it has the whole sweet/salty thing going on. The shrimp po boyger is executed more effectively than any real shrimp po boy I’ve had. The shrimp are chopped up and adhered together to form a dense patty that achieves a thick, burgery texture while maintaining the flavor of fresh shrimp. A slice of fried lemon and a slathering of mayo and Tabasco round out the dish.

The only thing that could possibly make this meal more perfect would be a sighting of the culinary wizard himself. You know, to brag to our friends about.

And then there he was, in a red t-shirt and his trademark spiky hair, delivering a plate of starters to the next table over. As soon as we saw him, Downtown Boy and I caught each other’s eye in excitement. A delicious meal and a celebrity sighting all in one lunch – does it get any better?

We say:
Believe the hype. It’s glamburger time.




Flip
1587 Howell Mill Rd NW, Atlanta, GA 30318-7648
www.flipburgerboutique.com

ACROSS THE STREET

She says:
If I were to create my perfect neighborhood business district, it would look something like this... a funky independent coffee shop with fabulous baked goods, a romantic little Italian bistro, a cozy pub with yummy chowders, a cheap Pho shop, and a cute Mexican restaurant with a sunny patio that serves great summery drinks. Across the Street happens to be that cute Mexican restaurant. It’s the perfect neighborhood joint, right down to its appropriate name. (When Downtown Boy asked where it was, I answered “it’s across the street from Highland Bakery).

Across the Street has a small indoor space decorated with local art, but the patio is where the action is. With an outdoor bar, an overhang to protect against sudden rainstorms, and a pleasant view of the Freedom Parkway running path, it’s a terrific place to enjoy a margarita and mojito.

He says:
And that mojito is pretty darn terrific too. With fresh mint and lime, and a hypnotic balance of vodka and sugar, it’s the best mixed drink I’ve had all summer. Even better was the queso dip. Neither too goopy nor too thin, it comes with a hint of chili-infused heat that lifts it above all the other cheese dips I’ve tried in Atlanta. Along with the freshly made tortilla chips, I could eat it all day and night, it’s that good.

The chicken chimichanga is yet another winner. What it gives up in originality it more than make up for in size. Stuffed to the max with the usual suspects – black beans, corn, cheddar cheese – it’s roughly the size of a Chihuahua. I found the chicken breast within unusually tender, which was another plus.

She says:
I didn’t love the shrimp enchiladas, mostly because they are smothered in the exact same cheese sauce as the queso dip. It's good, but unoriginal. However, we both enjoyed the tres leches, a sweet, moist white cake made with three types of milk.

He says:
I admittedly have not been to many Mexican restaurants in Atlanta, but so far this place is my favorite.




She says:
The entrees may be hit or miss, but if we could transport Across the Street closer to our neighborhood, we’d be sitting on their patio every beautiful summer evening with summery drinks in hand.




Across the Street
668 Highland Ave NE, Atlanta, GA 30312
http://across-the-street.com/default.aspx

ECCO

She says:
I’m mulling over the meal Downtown Boy and I had last week at Ecco during Midtown Restaurant Week, trying to capture the essence of our uninspiring dining experience. “Ecco… Ecco…” I repeat to myself. And then it strikes me: Ecco is perfectly named (albeit misspelled). It is a restaurant repeating something good, something strong and original, but is merely a reverberation, an act of mimicry, an echo, if you will, of better restaurants.

The interior has a classical touch of old Europe, which is appropriate for the “seasonally-inspired European cuisine” they serve (according to our waiter), but it mostly aims for the modern sophistication of newer restaurants with its open kitchen, long bar, and dim lighting. It’s a ubiquitous look, and if you’ve eaten at any upscale New American restaurant in the past year, then you’ve been here before.

He says:
The perpetual sense of déjà vu continues straight into the menu. The oak-grilled asparagus, drizzled in olive oil, has a nice smokiness but otherwise tastes exactly like the asparagus you cooked last night in your own kitchen.

The roasted organic chicken tastes, like, well, chicken. The breasts are well roasted and moist, but the salsa verde blanketing the chicken doesn’t add enough oomph to make this dish stand out.

Fortunately the steelhead is more interesting. This Atlantic trout is highly reminiscent of salmon due to its similar river/ocean life cycle. It is beautifully grilled, and the braised celery provides an earthy contrast to the dish’s overall butteriness.

She says: For me, the most original item was the fried goat cheese. The small balls of fried cheese have a salty outer shell, and are dipped in honey and sprinkled with black pepper. It provides a full symphony of flavors.

The chocolate terrine is like many other decadently rich flourless chocolate cakes, but I wasn’t complaining. Some things don’t need inspiration. It comes with large chunks of nut brittle that give the dish an interesting textural contrast, if not a break from the sweetness. For better or worse, I polished it off, while poor Downtown Boy reveled in his own skewed sense of dessert heaven, raving about the mushy bread pudding thing he was spooning up.

He says:
Oh dear. According to Uptown Girl, if it ain’t chocolate, it ain’t dessert. I liked my sour cherry bread pudding just fine. Like the chocolate terrine, it was a serviceable if unremarkable dessert.

We say:
Most people will like Ecco. The food is solid, and it’s a perfectly nice restaurant that won’t leave a hole in your wallet. But whenever we go we can’t help but get the feeling we’ve eaten these unoriginal dishes – in better incarnations – before.




Ecco 40 7th Street NE, Atlanta, GA 30308
http://www.ecco-atlanta.com/index.htm

TOP 10 ATLANTA RESTAURANTS FOR VISITORS

He says:
Uptown Girl recently sent me a Yelp reviewer’s list of Top 10 places to take visitors in Atlanta. I totally disagreed with it, but it got me thinking … If I had a new visitor in town, where should I take them? For me, it wouldn’t necessarily have to be best restaurants in the city; rather it should show off what makes Atlanta Atlanta, if you get what I mean. I challenged Uptown Girl to take 5 minutes to dash off a list of her Visitor Top 10 while I came up with my own.

Here’s my Top 10, in no particular order.

• Daddy D'z BBQ: BBQ in the South rocks, and this place rocks harder than most.
• Vortex: Atlanta excels at hamburgers, and the Vortex has some of the best. That, and a giant skull entrance.
• Six Feet Under: Fried catfish + city views from the balcony = perfection.
• Flying Biscuit: You need to have biscuits and grits in Atlanta, and this place has the best of both.
• Ria's Bluebird: In a city with great brunch spots, this is the best.
• Sun in my Belly: Top notch ingredients and dishes in one of the loveliest spaces in town.
• Alon's: The best croissants, cookies, and paninis around. Yum.
• Bacchanalia: Atlanta’s best restaurant deserves a spot on this list.
• The Earl: If only other restaurants put as much thought into their burgers as the Earl ….
• Morelli's Ice Cream: Flavors like coconut japaleno and ginger lavender make this a must visit.

She says:
Considering how frequently Downtown Boy and I disagree on most things, we were surprised to see how closely our lists matched. Both of our lists included …

• Ria’s Bluebird
• Flying Biscuit
• Bacchanalia
• Alon’s
• Six Feet Under
• Sun in my Belly
• The Vortex.

Here are my differing three:

• Taqueria del Sol: With such a sunny disposition, there are few days in Atlanta during which a selection of yummy soft-shell tacos (the fried chicken and fish tacos are my favs), fresh guac, and refreshing sangria don’t hit the spot.
• Watershed: This is about the only place you can find fried chicken and the traditional sides that don’t leave you feeling like you took a dip in a deep fryer.
• Two Urban Licks: Only for the fact that it is SO over the top! A visitor to Atlanta needs to understand this city’s wannabe superstar side too.

PARISH

He says:
Midway through a Saturday night dinner at Parish, I turned to Uptown Girl and said, “Don’t you wish Bacchanalia or Rathbun’s had a place like this?” She immediately concurred. To say that Parish is a beautiful restaurant is to traffic in understatement. This New Orleans-inspired market and eatery is, without question, the best-looking restaurant in Atlanta. The handsome decay of the Big Easy is discernible in every scraped stone tile in the ceiling, every wrought iron chandelier, and every brick peeking out from behind the crumbling plaster. Never has degeneration looked so gorgeous or organic. There are touches of New Orleans everywhere, like the beaded curtain at the front entrance and the corroded statue in the dining room, seemingly purloined from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. And when the lights are dimmed, Parish just might be the most romantic spot in the city.

Such a wonderful location deserves wonderful food, and that is where Parish falls short. We ordered the beer can chicken pastry appetizer hoping it would be super moist (as it should be), but the kitchen made the mistake of shredding the chicken breast and thus robbed it of its succulence.

My Mississippi Stuffed Catfish entrée was significantly better, with the crab stuffing and smoked macque choux lending the catfish some serious punch. My only complaint was the dish’s overt saltiness, which kept me reaching for a glass of water the rest of the meal.

She says:
The Crawfish Pie was disappointing. The crawfish tails were not very fresh. The lemon and tomato stew it came in was heavy and buttery, almost overwhelming. The herb biscuit drowning in the middle of it was a nice touch, but it wasn’t enough to cut this dish’s gumminess. This is definitely not a good summer dish.

The chocolate pecan pie was decent but not chocolatey enough. The mint ice cream was an attempt at innovation that didn’t quite hit the mark. It’s just not the best combo.

We say:
Imagine what Harrison & Quatrano or the Rathbun brothers could do in this space! Until then, we can only hope …




Parish
240 N. Highland Ave.
Atlanta, GA 30307
http://www.parishatl.com

THE GREEN GODDESS

She says:
After the “wisdom” of numerous Yelpers led us to three unsuccessful Cajun meals in a row in New Orleans, Downtown Boy and I were ready for something different. That’s when we stumbled upon the Green Goddess, a 4-day old restaurant nestled in a cute alleyway in the middle of the French Quarter. Ironically, although the menu utterly lacked in fried seafood, alligator meat, and anything else Cajun, it turned out to be the best meal of our trip!

The eager-to-please waiter easily convinced me to try the “Spooky” blue corn crepes, purely on the intrigue of the dish’s mysterious ingredient, huitlacoche, a rare Atzec corn fungus. Considered a delicacy in Mexico, in the States we apparently throw this “corn smut” out like any old fungus. This is a huge mistake! Delicate blue corn tortillas were piled with the mushroom-like fungus and covered with a brandy ragout, all of the flavors coming together to form an earthy, complex, slightly bitter, and completely addictive dish.

He says:
The bangers and mash was a delightful twist on the English pub standard. The duck sausage was hearty and bold, and it contrasted wonderfully with the butter and citrus notes of the sweet potato mash. And to think this little gem cost the same as those wretched po boys I suffered at the two Masperos!

The best part of the meal might have been the coffee, though. I have a soft spot for coffee mixed with condensed milk, which is how my mom used to make it. Throw in some chicory root for added depth and you’ve got the perfect ending to a meal.

She says:
After such an impressive entrée, I couldn’t resist trying the strawberry crème brulee for dessert. The burnt sugar atop had been soaked in balsamic vinegar and made for a delicious coating. The crème brulee itself had an excellent strawberry flavor though the consistency was a bit too yogurt-like.

We say:
If you’re a budget traveler in New Orleans, the Green Goddess is a godsend.




The Green Goddess
307 Exchange Alley, New Orleans, LA

ACME OYSTER HOUSE

He says:
Before heading to New Orleans, I consulted several online sites seeking the best cheap eats in the city. Apparently so did every other tourist visiting the Big Easy, which explains why the line outside Acme Oyster Company stretched all the way down the block. It was a truly random crowd, as pretentious East Coasters in bug-eyed sunglasses mixed uneasily with good old boys sporting eyepatches (no joke). Ah, the price we pay for inexpensive seafood!

And in the end, was the thirty minute worth it? In a word, no. Like most eateries that cater to gullible tourists who believe everything they read on the internets, Acme Oyster Company does the bare minimum to stay in business.

My fried peace maker po-boy was a mixed bag. Half the sandwich came with fried shrimp as rubbery as pencil erasers. The fried oyster side was much better, creamy and crunchy in all the right ways. The Tabasco-infused mayo added a welcome bite, though it couldn’t raise this sandwich from mediocrity.

She says:
Eager for a traditional Creole dish, I opted for the gumbo. Bland, bland, bland. Isn’t Creole cuisine supposed to be fiery? The shrimp were all small and insipid, and the rest of the soup just tasted like indistinct brown gravy.

Downtown Boy and I also shared a side of jambalaya, which thankfully did have some kick. Isn’t it sad when a bowl of rice becomes the highlight of a meal?

We say:
You see that long line of people waiting to get inside the Acme Oyster House? Don't join them.




Acme Oyster House
724 Iberville Street, New Orleans, LA 70130
http://www.acmeoyster.com/

PIERRE MASPERO'S

She says:
After being duped into eating lunch at the non-original, name-stealing Café Maspero, we discovered the real Maspero’s around the corner… the one with the really great food for a great price.

Or did we?

The Original Pierre Maspero’s is a dark, pub-like space with brick walls and tightly-packed wooden tables. It would have been charming if we hadn’t spent our entire meal shooing flying termites off our table and, at times, ourselves. While Pierre Maspero’s can’t be blamed for termite spawning season, wiping alates from your clothes simply doesn’t make for a pleasant dining experience.

At least we were about to get some really great food at a great price. Right?

Wrong. We began with the crab cakes. Unfortunately they lacked any true crabby flavor, and the texture was also off, as the cakes fell apart with a touch of the fork.

He says:
The Cochon De Lait sounded terrific on the menu (a po boy of slow-roasted pork loin with garlic and jalapenos) but turned out terrifically boring. I didn’t detect any garlic or jalapenos; even worse, I could not taste the pork. Biting into this sandwich was like eating … nothing.

She says:
I chose one of the traditional Cajun dishes Maspero’s highlighted as a specialty, the crawfish Pierre pasta. The fettucine pasta tossed with crawfish tails and a cream sauce was a lesson in blandness. I don’t think I could prepare pasta this tasteless if I tried! When a termite finally flew straight into my food, I shrugged and let it wallow in the pasta’s misery. I’d had enough.

We say:
Maybe there’s yet another Maspero’s hidden somewhere in the French Quarter, that reclusive, fantastical gem with great food at a great price. It is not Pierre Maspero’s.




Pierre Maspero’s
440 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130
http://www.pierremasperosrestaurant.com/

CAFE MASPERO

He says:
In New York City there’s a famous pizzeria called Ray’s that other lesser pizzerias nearby try to capitalize on by mimicking its name. Famous Ray’s. Original Ray’s. Famous Original Ray’s. Original Famous Ray’s. The list goes on and on. The idea is that someone – probably a tourist – looking for the real thing will stumble into your storefront instead. It’s one of the oldest tricks in the book, and dammed if we didn’t fall for it this weekend!

In New Orleans for the first time, Uptown Girl and I were seeking out a place called Pierre Maspero’s, which my coworker suggested for cheap, yummy sandwiches. Lo and behold, we walked past a sandwich shop with a similar name and a long line of tourists winding outside of it. Obviously this had to be the famous sandwich shop. Right?

Wrong. We later discovered that the real Maspero’s was around the corner. (Not that it was any better, but that’s for another review.) Café Maspero is just another overpriced tourist trap shilling inferior sandwiches for $8 a pop.

The mufulleta, a Big Easy favorite, is a dry, flat loaf piled with salami, ham, olive salad, and melted swiss. The meats were mere supermarket cold cuts, salty and bland. The single slice of cheese was barely heated through. And the olive salad was pedestrian. I could have assembled this bore-wich on my own for ¼ the price.

She says:
The vegetarian version of the mufulleta, the same sandwich without any of the meat, was probably worse. The only redeeming thing was washing down the overt saltiness of the olive salad with a sweet $1 strawberry daiquiri.

We say:
Café Maspero’s is a 2-fork eatery, but it loses a fork for stealing another restaurant’s name.




Café Maspero
601 Decatur Street
New Orleans, LA 70130

VINOCITY KIRKWOOD

He says:
The bandstand was empty. So were most of the tables. The dim, cavernous dining area could easily accommodate two hundred people, but on Saturday morning it only boasted two, both drearily sipping cups of coffee. On the television behind the bar, a woman in an infomerical was demonstrating how to use gallons of OJ and full laundry baskets to work out. Our waiter’s “bedhead” hair didn’t look artfully coiffed. In fact, it looked like he’d just woken up, rolled off the futon, and was looking for his pants. At any second we expected a janitor to come down the aisle, pushing along some red plastic party cups with his broom.

“This place looks like a hangover,” said Uptown Girl.

I couldn’t agree more. When we first reviewed Vinocity in 2007, it had a better location and higher ambitions. Its menu was all over the place, but at least it tried.

In contrast, I can't help but feel that Vinocity Kirkwood has given up. The new brunch menu contains several cutting edge dishes with names like “French Toast,” “Belgian Waffles,” and “Veggie Omelet.” Wow, really?! An omelet with vegetables in it? And $13 for a bagel & lox? Gee, thanks!

She says:
To be fair, Vinocity's main focus is on lunch and dinner, not brunch. My guess is that the addition of a weekend brunch menu is an attempt to turn an extra buck. But breaking into Atlanta's robust brunch scene is a hopeless endeavor with such a boring, overpriced menu and cheerless space.

As for the food... I can't complain about my crab cake benedict. The poached eggs jiggled amiably over two large and acceptably crabby patties. What I can (and did) complain about was the side of fruit, a pile of melon chunks which had gone rancid. When I handed the fruit back to our waiter, he agreed, saying "Yeah, that looks pretty bad." I suppose he was too busy wiping the sleep from his eyes to notice their disgusting condition earlier.

He says:
I ordered the special of the day, an omelet with polish keilbasa, red pepper, and feta cheese, mostly because it was the only item on the menu I’d never cooked before myself. As it turns out, I could have done better. The eggs were overcooked, almost rubbery, and there wasn’t enough pepper or cheese to balance the heaviness of the sausage.

We say:
If you’re going to serve brunch, shouldn’t you try to give a damn?




Vinocity Kirkwood
1963 Hosea Williams Drive, Atlanta, GA 30317
http://www.vinocitywinebar.com/

TILTH

She says:
Tilth is the kind of restaurant that you still talk about years after dining there.

Our dinner at this Seattle newcomer was a highly anticipated event. Ever since Frank Bruni, the New York Times food critic, selected Tilth as one of the top 10 new restaurants in America in 2008, Downtown Boy has been pining to go. I was also eager to eat at a restaurant committed to using only local, organic ingredients, which is exemplified both by its name (“tilth” refers to nutrient-rich soil) and the fact that it is one of only two restaurants in the country to receive organic certification from Oregon Tilth. Housed (literally) in the renovated first floor of a small Wallingford home, Tilth accommodates only 40 people at a time. This charming intimacy is enhanced by the waitstaff, who offer intelligent advice about the menu. Our waitress helpfully pointed out that it was common for guests to strategically order several half-dishes to maximize the number of entrees they could try. This is just what we did.

He says:
The simply-named "Hor d'Oeuvres" appetizer was anything but -- rather, it was simply marvelous. A gumdrop-sized ball of homemade mascarpone cheese sat on a crisp parmesan cracker, garnished with a fresh slice of fig. The ensuing synthesis of creamy, salty, and sweet notes had the entire table breaking into spontaneous smiles. This might have been the finest appetizer I've ever had.

My first half-entree, the smoked heirloom bean cassoulet, was surprisingly excellent. A bean stew rarely gets me excited, but Tilth's version came with wild mushrooms, truffles, and oven-dried tomatoes. An incredible, smoky earthiness infused every bite of this dish -- I never imagined such intensity could be wrung from such humble ingredients. The rich porcine flavors of my second entree, the slow-cooked pork cheek, were less unexpected but just as wonderful. The chefs at Tilth have mastered pork, retaining its subtle gaminess and keeping it tender enough to split with a fork. I mopped up every last piece in the pancetta-parmesan broth.

Last but not least came the Alaskan sablefish, a type of cod, which had been cooked sous vide. For those who do not know, the sous vide method allows for pressurized cooking at very low temperatures, which preserves the delicate texture of meat. For me, Tilth sets the standard for this kind of culinary magic. My first bite of sablefish literally melted on my tongue. My second bite, accompanied by a fennel salad and picholine olives, was even better. At this point, I was becoming convinced that this restaurant could do no wrong.

She says:
I agree, that sablefish was incredible. My other favorite, as odd as it sounds, was the cauliflower flan. The truffled flan was so rich you'd never guess that it was made from cauliflower. Drizzled on the side was a puree with meyer lemon, capers, and tarragon. I have seen many restaurants use artsy drizzles of sauces or purees to make their dishes appear fancy, but these usually don't add much to the dish. On the contrary, this puree provided a tart contrast to the creamy flan. In fact, each bite got progressively better as the various flavors fused on my tongue.

Less noteworthy was the sockeye salmon tartare. It's not that the mixture of raw salmon (of the quality you only find in the Pacific Northwest) with cornichon, endive, and dijon wasn't delicious ... it was just less impressive than the sablefish and flan.

As we ordered desserts, our waitress once again came to the rescue, insisting with surprising assertiveness that we include the cheesecake. Her advice was spot-on. It was unlike any other cheesecake I have seen or tasted... far less sweet, with the freshness of the cheese standing out. The little balls of sweet fromage blanc sitting atop a tiny crust of feuilletine had us all fighting over the final bites. We also had to try the avocado mousse, for novelty sake. I don't think it'll be replacing chocolate mousse anytime soon, but once again the unique combination of fluffy, lightly-sweetened mousse, candied ginger, and cilantro syrup had our palettes spinning.

He says:
The cheesecake was indeed on its own level of awesomeness. The almond brown butter cake paled in comparison -- it was too plain -- but the blood orange creme brulee held its own. Uptown Girl found it too sweet, but the rest of us swooned over the candied citrus rinds and silky custard.

We say:
Many other restaurants focus on local, seasonal fare, but Tilth takes it to new heights. With startling flavor combinations and top-notch service, Tilth is truly one of the best restaurants in America. We can't imagine having a better meal this year.




Tilth
1411 N 45th St, Seattle, WA 98103
tilthblog.wordpress.com

PIROSHKY PIROSHKY

He says:
Several years back I found myself in a ravenous state while exploring Seattle’s downtown for the very first time, and I headed into Pike Place Market desperately seeking a cheap, hearty snack. As luck would have it, I stumbled right into Piroshsky Piroshsky, a tiny shop that sells the small, stuffed pies that gives the store its name. The Russian word for “little feast,” a piroshky is a handheld pie that can contain anything from beef to mushrooms to fruit. The array of sweet and savory choices in Piroshsky Piroshsky’s display case is dazzling.

On our latest jaunt to Seattle, I ordered the cheddar cheese piroshky for nostalgia’s sake, and it’s just as delicious as I remember it. Thick wads of cheddar are baked right into the golden spirals of the moist, oily bun. Every bite must have been at least 200 calories – no matter, it’s totally worth it.

Uptown Girl ordered the chocolate-cardamom piroshky, which looked sweet and filling. Yum!

This isn’t fancy food by any means … just street food at its best.




Piroshsky Piroshsky
1908 Pike Pl, Seattle, WA 98101
http://www.piroshkybakery.com/

4TH & SWIFT

He says:
This past weekend, I treated Uptown Girl to a special Valentine’s Day dinner at 4th & Swift, one of Atlanta’s hottest new restaurants in 2008. And what says “romance” more than a 4-course prix fixe menu for $75/person? With Bacchanalia-level prices, though, there also come the expectation of a creative menu, top-shelf ingredients, and unexpected pairings that challenge the palette.

Could 4th & Swift deliver?

She says:
For the first course, Downtown Boy and I both chose the poached Maine lobster. If they were going to charge us an arm and a leg for dinner, we were going to get the most out of it! They were generous with the lobster meat, which was buttery and delicious. It came atop a pile of cauliflower “risotto,” which was, unfortunately, just a bland pile of steamed cauliflower. Also absent was the carrot-ginger emulsion… there was a butter sauce on the bottom of the plate, but it lacked any distinct ginger or carrot flavor.

My second course involved Yellowfin tuna prepared two ways. The first, a slab of tuna lightly seared and set on top of seaweed salad, was uninventive. The second was tastier and more creative – a spicy tuna tartare mixed with avocado and topped with wasabi tobiko (roe).

He says:
My second appetizer of pork sugo and herb gnocchi was disappointing. Ground up into a Bolognese-style ragu, the pork was as bland as the tomato base it came with. It didn’t help that underneath the parmesan flakes it looked like Hamburger Helper. The accompanying gnocchi was delicate and tasty, but it wasn’t enough to save this dish.

My “counting sheep” entrée – a North African inspired dish that included 3 types of mutton – fared much better. The merguez (spicy sausage) was rich and smoky. Two generous chops came with a creamy tahini sauce. And the slow braised shoulder, while tame, paired well with the moist bed of couscous and a spicy harissa.

She says:
On our server’s recommendation, I selected the roasted North Carolina pheasant for my entree. It reminded me of Thanksgiving dinner. First, the late fall/winter flavors were all there… the tender roasted pheasant meat, the buttery mashed sweet potatoes, the cabbage hash, and a sort of cranberry and nut chutney. And second, it was far too much food. I definitely enjoyed the dish, but I also wondered if 4th and Swift was trying to justify the price of this prix fixe meal through quantity rather than quality.

Consequently I could only manage a few bites of my dessert, a spiced chocolate pot de crème. The custard was fine, but missing any real intensity. I was put off by the cinnamon “churros” that came alongside, as they were not cooked through, leaving the interior unappetizingly gooey.

He says:
The parsnip and apple cake, 4th and Swift’s avant garde version of carrot cake, was a complete letdown. Any notes of either parsnip or apple were lost in two successive layers of maple cream cheese frosting.

Another letdown, I might add, was the restaurant’s décor. The entire “faux warehouse” look of backlit brick face walls and exposed piping is just so played out. It’s the de facto look of restaurants that are too lazy to create an authentic vibe. And I guess that’s my major problem with 4th & Swift, overall. The kitchen here is talented, but too many dishes are lazily prepared, or formulaic, or just plain boring.

We say:
Good food in search of true inspiration.




4th & Swift
621 North Avenue NE, Atlanta, GA 30308
http://www.4thandswift.com/