TWO URBAN LICKS

He says:
When I say that Two Urban Licks is the epitome of the soulless, superficial Atlanta restaurant scene, I mean it in the kindest possible way. Other restaurants may offer similarly dim mood lighting, but do they hang 20-foot-tall paper lanterns from the ceiling as Two does? Other restaurants may have incomprehensible postmodern art on their walls, but do they have an unfathomably large oil painting of a girl walking through a field filled with falcons and wildcats to assail the diner’s eye? No matter what any other restaurant in town has ever done, Two does it bigger and bolder. And it seems to be working. Two Urban Lick’s single-minded dedication to substitute any sort of homegrown character for over-the-top glitz will probably keep it standing long after its imitators have bit the dust.

Located in a converted warehouse just off Freedom Parkway, Two occupies a dark, thunderous space that creates the aura of eating dinner at a rave – I’m surprised the waiters weren’t twirling glow sticks. A wall of wine barrels lines the bar and in the middle of the enormous restaurant lies an open kitchen, where you can watch the cooks do their thing. Jam-packed with everyone from Buckhead blondes to rap stars to middle-aged yuppies in parties of 14, Two is definitely a place to see and be seen. In fact, seeing is the only thing you can do, since the live band’s guitars and the chaotic conversations booming off the walls make intimate conversation impossible. At most other Atlanta eateries, such a focus on visual fireworks would suggest a deficiency in the kitchen, but fortunately at Two this is not the case.

She says:
After shouting our drink orders to the waitress, our party of four (my brother and sister-in-law were in town for the week) tried our best to carry on a coherent conversation over the din. Fortunately the appetizers arrived soon enough and we could communicate more easily through mouthed “mmm’s” and nods of agreement. The salmon chips (smoked salmon chunks mixed with chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onions and served on a large potato chip) were delectable, with a pleasant, subtle spiciness. Even more innovative were the eggplant hush puppies, which came drizzled with blue cheese dressing and pico de gallo. The eggplant lent much-needed moisture and flavor to a typically bland, dried-out side dish. If only all hush puppies were so good! We also shared the “rocket salad” between us, a solid combination of greens with candied pecans, dried cranberries, and feta in a cranberry Serrano vinagrette.

He says:
My main entrée, braised pork with a side of baked cheddar macaroni, was less successful. The pork was very tender, especially the sections happily located along the veins of fat. But it was also bland, lacking both the meaty oomph I expected and an accompanying sauce to add some complexity. The mac’n cheese was creamy, but it wasn’t any better than what I could have whipped up at home.

In contrast, Uptown Girl’s sister-in-law ordered the duck breast stuffed with Italian sausage, and it was exceptional. The duck was silky and rich, practically melting on the tongue. The only drawback, she said, was that the sausage provided an unnecessary distraction from the duck. The cayenne sweet potato puree on the side was also excellent, sweet and hot in just proportions.

She says:
My brother and I both sprung for the seared tuna, on the waitress’ recommendation. The strips of rare tuna steak were lightly seasoned with a sesame dressing, letting the meat stand on its own accord. A wise choice on the chef’s part, although I occasionally tasted an odd, earthy flavor in the meat; I’m not sure if this is an indication of the quality of the fish or not. The tuna came with an avocado and edamame salad, which added to the simple freshness of the dish.

He says:
The dessert choices were the weakest part of the menu. The four of us ended up splitting the chocolate banana bread pudding, as it was the only interesting option. It sounded a whole lot better than it tasted… we all agreed that it wasn’t nearly chocolatey enough. It also would have also benefited from a greater variety of textures, say crunchy on top and silken below, instead of a singularly mushy one.

We say:
Two Urban Licks is the Las Vegas of restaurants: incredibly shallow and yet immensely entertaining. It stands apart from its flashy Atlanta brethren in the scale of its ambition and the quality of its kitchen. Aside from a weak dessert list and a few bum entrées, Two is a winner. Just don’t expect to have a conversation over dinner.



Two Urban Licks
820 Ralph McGill Blvd, Atlanta, GA 30306
http://www.twourbanlicks.com/home.html