VINE

She says:
Dining at Vine, a Virginia-Highlands eatery known for its extensive wine list, Downtown Boy and I once again found ourselves in a restaurant that fits the Atlanta mold we have come to dread … lured in by a trendy décor and tantalized by a surplus of creative appetizers, we are ultimately disappointed with mediocre and overpriced entrees. Maybe the one-word name should have tipped us off (see Saga, Vinocity, etc.).

Vine is an attractive restaurant. The interior is stylish without going overboard, with dark walls, warm tones, and abstract drip paintings, and the covered outdoor patio is a lovely place to unwind with a bottle of wine and enjoy the summer evening. I tried a glass of the Garnacha Rose, which was inconspicuous but refreshing.

He says:
We started off with the shrimp and crab wontons, a terrific starter that I would recommend to any patron of this establishment. The fried wontons give just the right amount of crunch while retaining the moistness of the Moroccan spiced crab and shrimp within. The wontons are good enough on their own, but they’re even better when paired with the bold and spicy notes of the accompanying lemon curry marmalade.

She says:
The wontons were delicious, and my hopes were high as the entrees arrived. But alas, the shrimp and tomato linguine was unremarkable, save for being too salty. The shrimp tasted and smelled extremely fishy (in an unappetizing way). I forced down about half, then filled up on the free bread and olive oil.

He says:
My vegetable risotto fared slightly better than Uptown Girl’s dish. The risotto was creamy even though it could have been cooked slightly longer, and the medley of asparagus, mushrooms, and Italian herbs was a solid combination. I’ve had better risotto elsewhere though, and Vine’s version wasn’t any more memorable than the smooth jazz piped in through the ceiling stereo.

We say:
Stick to the wine and appetizers and you might be happy at Vine.



Vine Restaurant
1190 N. Highland Avenue, Atlanta GA 30306
http://www.vinerestaurant.com/home.html

ANN'S SNACK BAR

He says:
Ann’s Snack Bar is the home of the Ghettoburger, a humongous double cheeseburger accompanied with grilled onions, chili, lettuce, tomatoes, and a liberal dusting of chili salt. It has a strong following, and in fact the Wall Street Journal recently named it the #1 burger in America. In my opinion, however, it doesn’t warrant such a lofty rating.

For starters, the Ghettoburger is so large that it falls apart as soon as you lift it to your mouth. Messiness when eating a burger is one thing, but entire hunks of beef and lettuce breaking apart at a touch is something else. Another problem is that the proprietor and sole cook, Ann, doesn’t ask how you want your burger cooked. She prepares them all well-done, which is a *serious* burger transgression as far as I’m concerned. There are also the excruciatingly long lines to deal with. Ann’s Snack Bar only seats eight at a time, so you’ll probably spend a good 30-60 minutes waiting on the concrete patio furniture outside. (That is if you get in, of course. The first time we arrived at Ann’s, we were turned away even though it was an hour before closing!) Finally, if you’re like Uptown Girl and don’t eat red meat, you are totally out of luck – the menu doesn’t extend beyond hamburgers and hot dogs.

This is not to say that Ann’s Snack Bar is without its charms. Ann is a gracious lady, and the bar itself screams authenticity – it’s little more than a kitchen and a long Formica counter. There aren’t any hokey road signs or sports memorabilia in this place. The burgers are pretty good, as are the fries. But they don’t compare to the offerings at Vortex or The Earl, and they’re definitely not in Bartley’s league. The best burger in America? It’s not even the best burger in Atlanta.




Ann’s Snack Bar
1615 Memorial Drive, Atlanta, GA 30317
404-687-9207

THUMBS UP DINER

He says:
The Thumbs Up Diner is a lively and popular brunch spot with three locations in Atlanta. Their Edgewood branch has an air of nostalgia to it, from the red leather booths to the old-timers sipping cups of joe at the counter. The service is also a throwback – it’s absolutely first-rate. Our waitress checked up on us several times during our Sunday brunch, always with a smile and exactly at the right moment.

The menu is extensive but not particularly novel. It’s filled with the usual suspects (blueberry pancakes, farmer’s omelet, etc.) and a couple of vegetarian nods (tofu and veggies). There are some rough spots though. When I asked if the orange juice was really fresh-squeezed – as indicated on the menu – our waitress said, “It says fresh-squeezed on the carton.” Hmmm … love the honesty, but I’ll pass on the juice.

She says:
I agree with Downtown Boy’s assessment. Atlanta has so many great brunch spots with menus filled with creative twists on breakfast that Thumbs Up Diner will probably not make my list of favorites. However, the next time I’m in the mood for diner food, this is probably where you’ll find me.

The French Toast is just what I’d hope for … lightly sweet, not soggy, and huge. Luckily our wonderful waitress cautioned me against getting two slices. One slice of the toast, along with two eggs cooked over-medium, made up my perfect diner breakfast. And don’t forget the coffee! It’s nothing fancy, but it does the trick on an early weekend morning.

He says:
The fried catfish and eggs sounds more intriguing than it actually tastes. The “special seasoned catfish filet” was like any old, bland white fish in a breaded batter, and the grits were not up to par with the Flying Biscuit’s version. The whole wheat biscuits were good, but not as light or fluffy as those at other eateries. I like the idea of fried fish in the morning, but this dish wasn’t particularly memorable. At least it was hella cheap at $6.50.

We say:
The dishes at Thumbs Up Diner won’t surprise you, but the service and prices just might.



Thumbs Up Diner
573 Edgewood Ave. SE, Atlanta, GA 30312
http://www.thumbsupdiner.com/index.html

JING FONG

We say:
On Sunday mornings in Atlanta, everyone goes to church. In New York, everyone goes to Jing Fong.

Jing Fong is the undisputed dim sum king of New York City, a bustling 900-seat banquet hall situated in the heart of Chinatown. The morning we went there with Downtown Boy’s parents, there were easily 80 people in line ahead of us. But not ten minutes later we were riding that famous two-story escalator up to dim sum paradise. It’s quite a rush to see such an ethnically diverse crowd happily chowing down, the thunderous din of a hundred simultaneous conversations bounding off the chandeliers and gold-painted dragon wall decorations.

This restaurant boasts an armada of tiny ladies who circle the floor in carts and offer the greatest selection of dim sum you’ll ever see. There are the usual suspects, like pork dumplings, shrimp balls, pot stickers, rice noodles with BBQ pork, sesame balls with black bean paste, and egg custards. And then there are the more unusual offerings, like crunchy taro balls that look like flash-fried electrons, durian pudding tarts shaped like green caterpillars, and chicken feet. Uptown Girl’s favorites were the shrimp and vegetable dumplings, both of which were extraordinarily fresh. Downtown Boy immediately went for the “triangle” pastries, barbecued snippets of pork in a golden, flaky crust. And the best part of all? It’s crazy cheap: you can stuff yourself silly and still pay less than a lunch at Chipotle.

Fast service, low prices, terrific selection, and best-of-breed dim sum … what more could you ask for?




Jing Fong
20 Elizabeth St., New York, NY 10013

PEKING DUCK HOUSE

He says:
When I first began eating at the Peking Duck House, it was a dinghy Mott Street haunt with squeaky wooden chairs and tiny tables crammed so close together the waiters would unapologetically knock into your back as they weaved through non-existent aisles. Back then it was packed every night with Chinatown locals who knew it had the best duck in the entire city … perhaps in the entire country. It’s true; I’ve had Peking duck in Beijing, and the Duck House’s version was nearly as good as the real thing. To this day the raucous crowds, completely Chinese menu (not one word of English!), and spectacular food remain seared in my memory.

But times have drastically changed at the Peking Duck House. Around 2004 the owners completely renovated the restaurant. Out went the sticky wood walls, in came the sleek marble tile. Out went the rickety chairs, in came the black leather padded seats. It looks nicer these days, I suppose, but what it has gained in opulence it has more than lost in character. The clientele has evolved along with the décor. When Uptown Girl and I arrived for lunch on a recent trip to NYC, the place was surprisingly empty at first. But that was just before a busload of French tourists laid siege upon the main dining room. Tourists? In the Peking Duck House? Reading from an all-English menu?

What hasn’t completely changed is the Peking duck, which is, as far as I know, still the best in the city. As always the chef comes out of the kitchen to show you the whole duck, carves it tableside, and then serves it alongside trays of sweet noodle sauce, green onion and cucumber slivers, and thin pancakes for rolling. The generous cuts of duck are marvelous, the crispy skin, fat, and rich dark meat all coming together to deliver a near-perfect combination of flavors, at once chewy and crunchy, primal and decadent. The noodle sauce’s sweet and salty notes sharpen the intensity of the duck while the cucumber and onion simultaneously provide a clean contrast from it.

We didn’t sample any other items because no one goes to the Peking Duck House for anything other than the namesake dish. This restaurant is essentially a one trick pony … but man, what a trick!

We say:
Not quite what it used to be, but still the best duck around.



Peking Duck House
28 Mott St., New York, NY 10013
http://www.pekingduckhousenyc.com