Thursday, May 15, 2008

BELEZA

She says:
After two visits to Cuerno, the next stop on our 8th and Juniper kick was Brazilian-inspired Beleza, Midtown’s hottest new cocktail lounge. Even on a Wednesday evening the place was packed, and with the arrival of a DJ our tranquil mid-week dinner was soon transformed into a much livelier affair. Beleza is sleek and trendy, but the airiness of the space and the bright tropical elements (reverse bamboo walls, Brazilian wood tables, and flower-inspired light fixtures) keep it from being overly swanky.

According to our friendly waitress, Beleza’s specialty is its cocktails, which use tropical juices and are sweetened with agave nectar. I tried the Batidas, which had guava juice and coconut milk that night (the type of juice changes daily). It was well-prepared and plenty strong.

The unique aspect of this cocktail lounge, though, is the focus on the food. Serving light small-plates, much of the food is raw, and there is a heavy emphasis on seafood, fresh fruit, and heirloom grains.

He says:
We started with the trio of ceviche, which is a great (albeit expensive) way to sample all three types Beleza offers. Each contained white fish marinated in citrus juices, but one had a creamy tanginess and was mixed with cucumbers, another was slightly sweeter with a pineapple/onion medley, and the third was flavored with chipotle and slightly spicier. My favorite was the cucumber version since the creaminess contrasted with the tartness of the lime juice.

The quinoa was less successful in my eyes. Mixed with cucumbers, peppers, feta cheese, and drizzled with a smoked eggplant puree, the quinoa was easy on the eyes but flat on the tongue. The feta crumbles provided the only real flavor, but they were distributed too sparsely to raise this appetizer above average.

She says:
The evening’s winner (at least in my opinion) was the amberjack. From the crudo section of the menu, the raw bites of delicate but full-flavored fish were topped with spicy slices of jalapeno peppers. The dish really exhibited the quality and freshness of the ingredients at Beleza.

Downtown Boy and I both liked the moqueca, although we didn’t find it all that original. Shrimp was served over very moist rice with coconut milk and cashews, resulting in a dish that was highly reminiscent of a Thai curry.

He says:
The caramelized banana with chocolate sorbet was an intriguing dessert. The sorbet was made with dark chocolate and was pretty intense, and the carmelization of the banana slices lent a slight coffee flavor to the dish. Overall the dessert was a bit too sweet for me but Uptown Girl was quite happy with it.

We say:
For a hearty dinner, you’re better off next door at Cuerno, but Beleza is an excellent place to start (or end) your evening with a tropical cocktail and fresh, light bites.




Beleza
905 Juniper Street, Atlanta, GA 30309
http://www.sottosottorestaurant.com/

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